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Thread: When to stop..........

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    St Helena,Melbourne
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    Sounds like the previous owner did nowt in the way of preventive maintainance, the early disco's were known for giving problems with the LT77 box so if you can source an R380 from a 300 tdi disco or defender you will be better off in the long run. Once that its sorted you should have a long interval without major headaches.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Thanks for the feedback.

    Wortho - Mechanic was recommended by a friend so I trust him as much as you can trust someone you don't know that well. He charged me 1 hour labour for the clutch job which I thought was reasonable and threw in the pink slip. he also has a sense of humour hence the 'repeat booking' comments. However he is not a Landy expert and doesn't work on too many 'diseasels' so maybe I should look around. Any recommendations in the Hornsby area ?

    Blknight - Crank was rechromed as a result of spitting the balancer so nothing was missed. Internals were also checked when the engine was apart and looked good (for 300K). My only question on cost was $490 inc GST for timing belt/gasket kit which included a new timing gear but not the balancer ?

    LandyAndy - I recall an article in Overlander or 4X4 Monthly a couple of years ago where an active system was fitted to an 80. There was a pendulum sensor in the engine bay and hydraulic rams on the suspension arms but I don't know if it was costly (or successfull). I will see if I can fish out the article.

    Regarding costs - I was expecting to spend at least $1000 per year on the disco. Much better than $3000 p.Yr depreciation + servicing and maint on the 80. I guess my intitial comments were a bit tongue-in-cheek but it is good to get some feedback from someone with experience of Solihull's finest

    TTFN

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Melbourn(ish)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Numpty's Missus
    I can remember back in early 80"s when we bought our Stage 1 we were told to be prepared to spend $1000 per year on it for maintenance.
    Don't know if this still holds true but the figure would be considerably higher now I should think.
    Maybe the last owner didn't spend the alloted $$

    Actually I'll second that Missus numpty... In fact factor in filters, belts, tyres, oils and you wouldnt be far off of that for a new car
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Now where are we at.....

    So where are we at now,,,,,

    Purchase price $4500 @ 293700kms, spent $3000 on the crank, timing belt, clutch and tow @ 298500kms.

    Power was down after Easter and I was blowing a load of smoke away from the lights so took it for a Diseasel service. Injectors out and cleaned (should last until next year), suction test showed air getting in so Lift pump replaced. $590

    About a week later it became hard to start and stalled at the lights so I took it back. Another suction test showed air getting in again. Suspected that the Fuel pump housing had become porous so replaced with a Delco glass-bowl unit. $375

    Amaaaaaazing difference on picking it up again. Double the power/torque (or thats what it felt like). For about a month! Now we are back to the 'craaaawl' away from the lights with clouds of smoke at night (visible in the headlights behind me).

    Now I wish I was back behind the wheel of the Petrol 80 as this is becoming frustrating. Admitedly I am new to Diseasels but even after hours of google searching I am still not sure where to start looking. I would like to take it back to Sydney Diesel Centre but will have to wait for a couple more pay-checks to pass.

    So damage to date - Purchase price $4500, Repairs $4000.
    and back behind the wheel of a smoking slug!

    Interestingly, fuel consumption is up and down. I always fill up at the same Caltex, and always run it down to a similar level (I nearly always put in 66/67ltrs per fill) but get anything from 600 to 700kms per fill for little variance in the driving conditions.

    Now I realise that I may have offended a couple of people with my comments but I still have a little faith in the car as other than the power/smoke, I am content with the vehicle. Body, chassis & drivetrain should hold out for another couple of hundred thou.

    So, where to from here? Any suggestions.

    Cheers M'dears & Bigears!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Alstonville...is near Byron Bay
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    Sorry to hear of your woes bigdog.

    But, by the time you're fixed up, you'll have a good Disco that'll last for aeons...

    Your only other worry will be the power steering, but there's plenty on here about that, and its not such a drama any more...

    I wouldn't be in a hurry to dump it, it now owes a bit more, so use it!

    cheers, GQ

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Melbourn(ish)
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    you can feel free to pm me for my email and I'll give you what advice I can online while you sort stuff out...

    Its blowing smoke for one of a number of reasons, lets start cheap and work up from there....

    For starters do you know which end of a screwdiver and spanner to hold and if you do just how confident are you with them...... at this point we need to check out the air induction system and make sure that the engine is actually capable of breathing correctly.....

    This bits easy open the air filter housing and take out the filter, whats it look like, clean dirty saturated or what filter?


    Check all the hosesthat run from the airbox to the turbo from the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the inlet manifold give them a squeeze, if they're mushy they need replacing, if they dont feel mushy take them off carefully one at a time and see if they look ok inside, is there any oil in them while the one that comes from the turbo to the cooler is off put your finger on the turbine wheel and give it a gentle wiggle then a light flick , how well does it turn, how much freeplay has it got?.

    when thats all done providing theres no oil or debry in the intercooler connections that might indicate that your intercooler is clogged then the engine can inhale properly...


    get back to us with what you find and we'll procced in diesel fault finding 101
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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