And still mixed it up:p
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outboards 50:1
brushcutters, chainsaws 25:1
thats it.
just be carefull running at 50:1, i have just written two husky's (357xp i think) off at my work as they have siezed, the operators assured us they mixed at 25:1, for some unknown reason we do not run them on husky two stroke oil. keep in mind these are fleet chainsaw so they are not treated with the same respect as personally owning one.
I used to be a sales rep for McCulloch and I now own a Husky 359, a magnificent saw.
My first McCulloch lasted 30 years cutting around 7 tonne of firewood a year, its still going, I put a 24" bar on it for the big stuff, but it is'nt anti vibe, and I really prefer the husky coz it is pretty smooth.
The secret of a chainsaws long life is simple.
Clean air
Fresh fuel with correct mixture
Thats it
I think my 30 year old saw has used around 4 air filters.
An old bush mechanic's advise was "keep the oil up to em", cheaper to replace an oiled plug than an engine...
So I mix it up 25 to one and if it is smokey, I go 30 to one and so on.
BTW, Stihls are no longer what they used to be. Also too heavy for the cc's;)
Sharpened the chain and chopped down a couple of palm trees and a few other things yesterday arvo. All I can say is the 357XP is a bloody awesome saw!!! Light, powerful, and no feedback/vibration into the handles. Mine has a near new 20" oregon bar and chain (maximum size for a 357) and the motor still has plenty of grunt even when the 19" or the 20" bar is buried in a palm trunk.
Hi Ben
When you are ready for some firewood in winter bring it down and a trailer,I can get some REAL wood for you to hook into.See how you go in whitegum,nice hot firewood but murder in your chain,you will only cut a few rings and the chain will be blunt.You will love the saw in dry jarrah,it will rip thru it.
What sort of chain has it got??? Ive been running full chisels,awesome cutting power but blunt fast and are harder to keep cutting true.Ive recentley started using the semi chisel,dont cut as fast but handles charcoal/debris much better.
Andrew
Mine doesn't have the decomp lever but this is the startup proceedure as told to me by the dealer when I first purchased it.
Pull and push the blue lever in and out about 4 or 5 times. Apparently this lever both primes the fuel as well as sets the choke "on". The blue lever should be in when finished. Pull the pull start as many time as is necessary for it to either start, or at least splutter a bit. Usually it starts and revs like crazy. Once it has fired at all, operate the throttle trigger, which will release the choke and reduce the revs. It should run now.
The blue lever must NOT be left out while trying to start it. Also check that the chain brake is not on before doing any of the above.
Sounds good Andy. Has an oregon full-chisel chain. Might have to try the semi-chisel.
The chain was blunt by the time I had finished the palm, but I did cut the trunk into 2" thick slices so I can just throw it in the garden, rather than having to cart it away.
Are there any ironbarks over in WA? Some of the varieties of that on the east coast are like trying to cut steel.
EDIT - I thought you said all your firewood had burnt down in the fires?
I would think our whitegum is just as hard if not harder,you get sparks off the chain!!!!
Most was burnt but will be able to find something,just wont be able to do the trade we were doing in the past:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
Andrew
Already have it started thanks, but what you say is almost the complete opposite of what the manual says:
Chain Brake ON
Pull choke out (once) and LEAVE out (unless saw is already hot - in which case push back in - this is just to make sure kill switch is on)
Pull until saw kicks over
Push choke in
Start saw
Disengage chainb brake ASAP
Andy - probably just as hard - I think the dry WA summers might help make the timber harder too. I chopped a limb off a big old bottlebrush yesterday too, and I had a few sparks, but I thought it was just cause the chain was fairly blunt by then.