Took just under twenty minutes to load with Firefox. Konqueror refused to look at it - which is a commentary on the site since konqueror adheres to the published standards more closely than any other browser (in other words does not allow for Microsoft's non-adherence to standards).
The site itself is big on appearance but seems to be a bit short on data. For example - nearby accommodation, perhaps a site map (the location map is a real good idea). I could not seriously recommend anyone with a dial-up connection to bother trying to load it. For comparison, the AULRO site loads in about fifteen seconds, has a lot more information, and works with all the browsers I have tried.
I did not find the print too small, but this will depend on your monitor - it will also depend on browser settings. I allowed pages to set the fonts without trying to control size or type.
John
