disco 3 vs RR vs RRS reliability

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Originally Posted by Disco95

Would be interested in hearing more on RRS issues IF ther are any.
Thje better half is looking in this direction.
Gotta be a better choice than the the Prado:mad:
But Prado winson the $$$$$ side.

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The RRS is a far better vehicle than the toy ploder

BUT

If your after a second hand RRS, get a second hand MkIII RR, it’s a much better vehicle and will be around the same price as the cheaper when new RRS.

If your thinking of buying a new RRS then seriously consider the D3, much better value and a much more realistic 4x4.

I’m so ****ed off with RRSs that I don’t want one when they give me a loner when ever I take one of mine in for a service, rather have a D3 as a loner.

Cheers.

thanks drivesafe
how many Kms have you done in your RR now?

the big RR is 80% what we'll get :cool:
disco scores 10% cause we can get a 7 seat (those extra seats come in handy)
RRS scores 10% casue she like the way it looks :wasntme:

Jase

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Depends on your luck.


Same couldn’t be said about the transmission, that just cost me $6,000.
did you ever do oil changes on auto or just follow LR service schedule?

Would I buy another RR, absolutely. if you can ignore the repair bills (like above) why would you drive anything else ;)
Jase

Cheers

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by jase

anyway I do prefer the RR :) only D3+ is the 7 seats

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There's a mob (Black T Auto) in Melbourne doing 7 seat conversions to the RRS. I note they also say

"Forward facing 7 seat option for Range Rover Vogue, HSE and SE"

See item no. 110112979690

Ron

Hi jase, as far as the transmission goes, I drove the RR VERY hard while towing a fully loaded trailer on a number of trips between Sydney and the GC and I have now paid the price.

As for the rest, LRA now has an attitude that the customer IS right and they are doing their best to look after us.

The reverse seems to be the case with other makes, particularly Toyota.

I’m going to wait about 12 months and then see how good the TDV8 RR is going and then get one.

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I’m going to wait about 12 months and then see how good the TDV8 RR is going and then get one.

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Will be interesting to see how the transmission handles 650Nm with the TDV8;)

What changes have they made?

thanks Ron
looks good only drawback 36kg weight limit????
I'll checkout if "big" RR is same
Jase

Quote:

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Originally Posted by p38arover

There's a mob (Black T Auto) in Melbourne doing 7 seat conversions to the RRS. I note they also say

"Forward facing 7 seat option for Range Rover Vogue, HSE and SE"

See item no. 110112979690

Ron

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

Completely different.

Unlike previous Discos, the hand brake on D3 actually operates a pair of small drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs...

FWIW... You should always park a Landy in in gear (or 'P').

M

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Not reasonable to turn-off a turbo engine twice to go through a gate just after a fast run on a hot day - vehicle was a manual and the handbrake was fully applied each time.

Scouse, what's with the ball joint problem?. I've done 84000km (June 05 build) and no probs. My suspension issue was the well known geometry issue as covered by TSB LA204-009V2 Dynamic Suspension Geometry Setting Mode and TSB LA204-008V2 Uneven Tyre Wear.

May be it's older vehicles than mine.

No problems with the park brake either, except it can get sand in it on a beach run).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jamo

Scouse, what's with the ball joint problem?. I've done 84000km (June 05 build) and no probs. My suspension issue was the well known geometry issue as covered by TSB LA204-009V2 Dynamic Suspension Geometry Setting Mode and TSB LA204-008V2 Uneven Tyre Wear.

May be it's older vehicles than mine.

No problems with the park brake either, except it can get sand in it on a beach run).

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We've had quite a few front suspension knock complaints.
There are often a few causes (lots of lower column shafts & the odd rack ) but many have been badly worn lower suspension arm ball joints. Some are worn alarmingly with approx 5mm movement while others have barely perceptible movement. The age of the car or km travelled doesn't seem to matter. We've done ball joints on low km city cars (30000km) & high km country cars (80000km).
I don't know what's causing this abnormal wear & I don't know if LR are investigating it - I hope UK are. It might be a design issue, it might be a material issue. Hopefully it might be limited to a batch but I don't think so...

From what I've seen, the handbrake issue is due to mud driving. We have one car that get used off road that's always coming in for a handbrake problem. It's had at least 2 complete actuator assemblies that have burnt out (and locked on the handbrake on one occasion) & a few drum cleanouts, adjustments & a shoe set replacement.