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If per chance you want to re-attach your bullbar ( after some sledge hammering to straighten it) try some M12 coarse thread HT (grade 8) bolts 125 mm long with nylocks. Thats the max the holes in the Disco chassis rail will accept. Highly probable that the original bumper bar bolts ( M8 by landrover) were re-used by the bullbar fitter. That might explain the failure. I've used these size bolts on both my rangie and Disco, and now with a winch - with no probs at all.
Glad to hear all safe... we had a similar incident in our club recently finding out a custom bar made for a D2 was fitted with mild-steel bolts... sheared the bottom 2 trying to high-lift it after being hung up.
Must admit we check every new members vehicles for suitable recovery points etc. but i've never even thought about checking the bolts... scary
Glad no one was hurt.
I bet the Trainer had a long face,,,
his responsibility,,
was it a slow snatch?
although the vision in my head is as funny as phuck..you made me go out and check mine....
"chain is only as good as its weakest link" true for most things 4wd
That wasn't luck, that is just good safe practise.Quote:
Originally Posted by sam_d
BTW, this didn't happen without PICS!!
Flamin' Heck, Sam!
That is bad luck - but are you trying to take the bad luck mantle off me?
It could be still worthwhile following up, if possible, whoever installed it. Make sure you keep the bolts to show they didn't fail owing to 10 years of fretting due to looseness.
Was this on an LROC training day (I recall you were looking at joining the club)?
Ron
I might need to check/fabricate some new mounts for the FL, the stock ones are excessively girly...
Seen pics of this happening before..
also recall a story by a sparky - he fitted a 10,000 warn to his rangie. first serious pull, he winched the bar off. There was a bit of slack in the leads, there it was apparently, still going as it came off.
There's also another side to this general issue. As trip leader, we now heading towards having to be careful what to advise for insurance reasons. Basically can't recommend much at all without engineering qualifications. So it's no longer "use the tow bar", it's have a look, what's obvious to you".
Regards
Max P
No matter what strength bolts you use, if the bolts are on top of eachother a pivot point will be formed and the bolts will eventually sheer off, or the factory holes in the chassis rails will be elongated.
People just do not realise the amount of force involved in a snatch recovery. Like Tusker said for insurance reasons you cannot say much to people. However if common sense is used if you look at a towbar anchor point the bolts run along the chassis rails thus spreading the load, where as on a D2 not sure of the D1 the front causes problems These problems can be avoided by having a spreader bar welded to the chassis rails (but then you need an engineers certificate due to welding and plating of the chassis, then a blueslip to re register the vehicle as modified, then higher insurance premiums for the life of the vehicle then if the vehicle is sold the value is greatly deminished)
My advice buy a shovel.