Thread: My diff saga continues..

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Its not bolt in Baz, and I'm not aware of it being done to a D2 diff unlike a D1/RRC diff. Basically the whole diff assembly is replaced with a Toyota 8" one back into the Rover axle housing. The studs are modified to suit the Toy diff and axles need to be made to suit. Tailshaft then needs to be matched to the Toy pinion flange which can be done a few different ways. The locker will be a Toyota one, not Maxidrive. To keep costs down though JacMac will make a locker with Rover 24 spline sides to suit the standard axle or Maxidrive axles.

So the Ashcrofts CW&P is the easier solution

I'd never fit a Hliux diff centre in a 110 or 130 **** end. If it's not considered strong enough for a 70, 80 or 100 series back end, I don't think it's tough enough for a heavily loaded/abused 'fender.
The P38 style centre in the Defender is just pathetic, but I don't consider the 8" centre that much of an improvement, either.
A toyo 8" CWP just can't be compared to a D60/Sals CWP, and if the axle size isn't big enough, get some new side gears and axles from JMac.

And shaving a Sals to the same clearance as a Rover case only takes an hour or so.....
I know I've posted this pic more times than you can poke a stick at

Originally Posted by Redback

So the Ashcrofts CW&P is the easier solution

Way easier. If you're not breaking things then there isn't any point in changing away from the Rover gear.

Originally Posted by rick130

I'd never fit a Hliux diff centre in a 110 or 130 **** end. If it's not considered strong enough for a 70, 80 or 100 series back end, I don't think it's tough enough for a heavily loaded/abused 'fender.
The P38 style centre in the Defender is just pathetic, but I don't consider the 8" centre that much of an improvement, either.
A toyo 8" CWP just can't be compared to a D60/Sals CWP, and if the axle size isn't big enough, get some new side gears and axles from JMac.

And shaving a Sals to the same clearance as a Rover case only takes an hour or so.....
I know I've posted this pic more times than you can poke a stick at

Have you priced there ^ gear, was doing some work setting up there new factory, they quoted me $20k for front and rears, after i got up off the ground, i said no thanks, thats a lot of toy centres

Originally Posted by Scouse

Just for your info Max, Discos use the same diff front & rear & so do the P38s now (front diff # supercedes to rear diff #) so the teeth cut can't be different with those at least.

Would you need an engineers report for a Salisbury ?
It's a direct swap with no welding of mounts or other mods needed.

Scott, does this mean that in Max's Defender the front diff is a Rover style diff that runs a p38 CW/P? Or at least that on his Defender that the front and rear CW/P are interchangable?

We'll know tonight - the diff guy will say its ready to pick up, or the bits don't interchange.

Latest on the proper CW&P is that there might be a rear in Israel..

Regards
Max P

Originally Posted by Tusker

We'll know tonight - the diff guy will say its ready to pick up, or the bits don't interchange.

Latest on the proper CW&P is that there might be a rear in Israel..

Regards
Max P

If the Israeli army use them they must be a tad strong, Bullet or bombproof diff centres.

Originally Posted by 6.5rangie

Have you priced there ^ gear, was doing some work setting up there new factory, they quoted me $20k for front and rears, after i got up off the ground, i said no thanks, thats a lot of toy centres

that's just a Rock Crusher D60 cover on a shaved Sals.
The bottom of the diff was only taken off to the top of the bottom bolt hole, hence the relocated bolt in that shot.

The original cover was weeping too much for my liking with most all it's flange removed, and the nodular iron RC cover protects the crown wheel if you drop the diff on a rock and has put some stiffness back into the housing (if any was actually lost) by using a rigid loctite sealant gluing it to the diff housing.
That diff only has approx 3/4",19mm removed. Plenty of blokes on OL and Pirate chop the whole bottom of the diff off and weld a plate on and turn down the crown wheel, but this is a work truck/daily driver so I didn't want to weaken anything. It's dead easy to chop that much off, there is so much excess steel hanging off the bottom of a Salisbury.