A mate of mine paid 3k for a very tidy one a few years back.
Original paint
RM paras and disco rims
Aftermarket (180sx) seats - with mod plate
reco'd engine and gearbox (with receipts)
Possibly an overdrive (can't remember 100%)
G'day All,
not sure if this is the right place for this - but I'm after some opinions on the price for a very original, no rust, straight panels SIII shorty. Paint is not original and looks a bit ordinary but otherwise its as the maker intended.
She's a 2.25 petrol, no o'drive. Engine is strong, no smoke or rattles. Throw out bearing is a bit noisy (a must-do) but otherwise its all good. No bling, no extras, no mods.
Oh, it also comes with a RWC but no rego (a few weeks left).
Don't ask me for the details - I want first crack at it!
Cheers,
Adam
PS - how do I put my location in my profile?
Last edited by akelly; 21st June 2007 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Cant work out how to put my location in!
A mate of mine paid 3k for a very tidy one a few years back.
Original paint
RM paras and disco rims
Aftermarket (180sx) seats - with mod plate
reco'd engine and gearbox (with receipts)
Possibly an overdrive (can't remember 100%)
Thanks Numpty's Missus! I even found the bit where you add the signature - I feel like a comuter guru!
G'day Kels
If you ever get sick of that super ten i know someone who will give it a good homedon't spouse you know if we ever got the 750's in Oz?
cheers
Mick
Very dependent on condition - and who is looking for one at present! Critical factors are chassis and bulkhead rust, does the gearbox jump out of gear? Does everything work (lights, wipers, heater, brakes, high/low/4wd etc) - not so much that individual items necessarily cost that much to fix, but gives an idea how its been maintained. Tyre condition, particularly uneven wear, how does it steer? What is the upholstery like?
A really good hardtop or utility should go for somewhere round $3000 or even more, but I have to emphasise that this will depend on how many people are looking for one right now. The market is fairly thin so will vary quite a lot from time to time and also place to place.
Hope this helps,
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I dont like doing this without at least photos to look at to point you at things to look at but Id guess $2.5k.
Theres lots of things to check first but assuming that it at least changes and holds gears (inc hi/lo) has clean oil everywhere its ment to be (leaks dont count) and doesnt have excessive play in wheel bearings and swivel pins then thats my start point...
I adjust it depending on how friendly the seller is, how long he lets me spend looking at it and what reasonable stuff he draws the line at me checking..
ThIngs I like to check if allowed.
1. points and cleanliness of the dizzy+ 4 spark plug
2. Bottom of the oil bath filter and throat of the carby
3. The fuel bowl on the lift pump for sedimentation
4. oil in the steering box (not the relay box)
5. crap in the axle hub covers ( the little ones you have to take off to remove the drive axle locating nut)
6. tap test on every joint/bend of the chassis
7. same for the firewall
8. Uj's/slip joints
9. sump gasket for leakage after cleaning it and going for a long test drive
10. remove the TX tunnel cover, remove the shifter and inspect the clutch pressure plate fingers through the inspection port on the top of the bell housing.
The highest I have ever advised paying for a SIII is $9k when I went to check it it was up on a hoist in a home workshop ready for inspection and the old guy who was selling it was with me for the inspection and everything I put my hand on that could be easily serviced or replaced he helped do including the UJ's. when i checked em he said theyd been done 12 months ago but he had 4 spare so if I wanted to put the new ones in hed give me a hand after he had had lunch and would I mind staying for a BBQ....
Bloke who bought it got it for $8.5 and it was fully serviced and when he took it for rego the only thing that he got picked for was the cracks in the dash vynal.
I wish that that bloke ran a car yard...
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
G'day Mick - sorry mate, the ten stays with me! As for the 750 - I know there are a few around in oz, not sure if they were sold new here though. There was one for sale recently - I think it was on the Adventure Riders forum(?) There is an Africa Twin (the honda answer to the Super Ten) on that forum too I think?
John and Blknight - thanks for the advice. I don't have a picture but the fella selling left it with my dad for a whole day (including overnight) - he's had a few landy's in his day as well (although he's gone to the dark-side with a 6x6 tojo). Dad reports it's one of the best he's seen in terms of general condition - he didn't have time to start pulling plugs and stuff (runs his own business) so can't say too much about inner workings. It doesn't jump out of gear, but he didn't check 4x (as far as I know). Started first turn hot and cold with no smoke. He said it needs a couple of things: clutch slave, front wheel cyls and probably a decent service.
I'll be going to check it over in detail soon. Having had a good SIII and a not so good IIA I've got a rough idea of where to look for rust and so-forth. I'll check all the bits you've recommended blknight - thanks for the heads-up.
It's not a 100 pointer - that's not what I'm after, but it seems to be an honest little unit. I'll report back with more when I've seen it.
I'd be thinking the $2,500 - $3,500 range. If it includes original mirrors, mudflaps, floormats, rooflining etc, then obviously it's "more original" and with the right buyer could go up another $1,000.
All being equal body wise (chassis, firewall etc as already mentioned) and mechanically, other things that can add value are low km's and a History (such as military parade vehicle with a genuine 2,000km).
These are the vehicles one hopes get bought by enthusiasts who will both maintain & use them.
PS. such a vehicle is probably worth $15,000USD or more in the USA.
What's considered low km on a 70's landy? Most would have been around the dial at least once!
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