Thread: Contents of spares box?

if youve got the rover rear diff (IIA's and SWB III's) a pair of the axle shafts.
4l of engine oil (you can use it in the gearbox/tcase/diffs if you have to)
a pair of Uj's
1 set of spring bolts (3 total)
points + condensor
fencing wire
if your planning on being really rough on it a set of tie rod ends.

Far more important is plenty of water, tyre repair gear and an air compressor.


I wouldnt worry about the bearings, Ive carried them an never needed them.

On a Rover diff, the weakest point is the axles.

On a Salisbury diff, the weakest point is the axle flange where it bolts to the hub. I broke one of these in the Simpson. You should be able to pick up one for a round $20. It took about 20min to strip, clean, replace and reseal mine on the side of the track.

I carry 1 x LH thread & 1 x RH thread tie rod ends. I had one let go just after I bought a Series 2A, but none that have let go in the bush. Also a couple of clamps for the tie rod ends. I believe the 90s had h'duty clamps, and you can get similar ones off a Ford at the wreckers.

While you're at the wreckers, grab an assortment of hose clamps. Also XF Falcons have a fuse box in the drivers footwell and have a couple of 15 amp circuitbreakers in there that fit in place of glass fuses, Grab a couple.

If you have a later Bosch alternator fitted, grab an external reg & brushes that just screws into the back.

2-3 meters fuel hose in case you have a split. If your fuel pump dies you can siphon fuel from a jerry can on the roof.

Spare tyre tube, valves & repair kit.

Uni joints, fan belts and a set of wheel bearings as already mentioned

I recommend Q-Bond as an alternative to metal putty, I'd carry both.

Wire, connectors, globes, relays.

Asst'd bolts & screws.

Thanks guys. Good to see I'm not being paranoid for a change...will start sourcing.

Out of interest....I was considering Maxi drive shafts front and rear (Rear to be fitted with lockers) - is it worth keeping the ones pulled out as spares, or will they no longer fit.

Same with CV's - Maxdrive advised getting the ones form a County, but would that then mean the ones I pulled wouldn't fit back in?

Ideally would like to replace working stuff in advance, and keep what I remove as the spares (red hoses, tie rod ends, etc.)

When you say "old Landie" do you means a Series vehicle, or your '94 Defender? Because the '94 Defender is still a NEW car (for a Land Rover).

If you mean the Defender, you can probably ignore most of the spares I listed for series mishaps.

Originally Posted by Michael2

When you say "old Landie" do you means a Series vehicle, or your '94 Defender? Because the '94 Defender is still a NEW car (for a Land Rover).

If you mean the Defender, you can probably ignore most of the spares I listed for series mishaps.

I meant the Defender! That's why "old" was in quotes!

I still quite like your list though - mine has done 230k, and only 5k of that with me, so I don't really know how well it's been maintained up to me buying it.

a spare coil never goes amiss and a spare HT lead or two.

Originally Posted by HangOver

a spare coil never goes amiss and a spare HT lead or two.

Hmm...now where would I put those on a TDi?

Originally Posted by Michael2

On a Rover diff, the weakest point is the axles.

On a Salisbury diff, the weakest point is the axle flange where it bolts to the hub. I broke one of these in the Simpson. You should be able to pick up one for a round $20. It took about 20min to strip, clean, replace and reseal mine on the side of the track.

I carry 1 x LH thread & 1 x RH thread tie rod ends. I had one let go just after I bought a Series 2A, but none that have let go in the bush. Also a couple of clamps for the tie rod ends. I believe the 90s had h'duty clamps, and you can get similar ones off a Ford at the wreckers.

While you're at the wreckers, grab an assortment of hose clamps. Also XF Falcons have a fuse box in the drivers footwell and have a couple of 15 amp circuitbreakers in there that fit in place of glass fuses, Grab a couple.

If you have a later Bosch alternator fitted, grab an external reg & brushes that just screws into the back.

2-3 meters fuel hose in case you have a split. If your fuel pump dies you can siphon fuel from a jerry can on the roof.

Spare tyre tube, valves & repair kit.

Uni joints, fan belts and a set of wheel bearings as already mentioned

I recommend Q-Bond as an alternative to metal putty, I'd carry both.

Wire, connectors, globes, relays.

Asst'd bolts & screws.

Weakest point on a rover diff is the cross shaft in the center then the crown wheel then the axles ive broke a few