Thread: Series I Info

G'day Guru036

Here is a bit more info for you

2 types of steering box, 86 & 107 small housing with filler plug on the colunm shaft and a combined horn button with dipper switch in the centre of the wheel.

88 & 109 larger steering housing (same through 2/2a) listed as new part type. no horn button, on a pressed tin stalk attached to the column by a clamp dipper switch mover to floor. this later one could have been fitted to replace a cracked early type (Aliminuum housing) as early as under 2year old.

Also there are 2 different brake drum sizes, 86 & 107 with 10" brakes and the later 107 & 109 with 11" brakes, but it only lists one type of Rear Axle that is Semi Floating I would suggest that the Full Floating Axle part Numbers came out as a supercession in 56 model, and only with 11" brakes

The closest that I can find to that Number you posted is listed in the vehicle numbers as 56-57 Basic Vehicle, Home Market 88" (between 111600001 and 111700001)

cheers

I know nothing about series landys but it looks OK and complete-ish and you got it for a good price, what more could you want

Okay,

First of all I'm in Sydney, will update profile

Chassis number best I can read it is 277500906 but after looking into it I think it should be 277600906)

motor number is 111714910 and oil filter is on drivers side

meassured the diffs and they are 1310mm wide (track) so they are later. the brakes look small so I assume that they are off a SWB with 10" drums.

Is there much difference's in the leaf springs between thee models?? As I have a set off a Stage I V8 sitting here that are in good nick and I could pull apart and use instead of trying to fit the really rusty ones that are in it.

I think I will build it up as is with maybe replacing the steering box and wheel if I can find one.

The other thing is I have afew remains of a Stage I V8 I use to own. Including a front diff assembly that I rebuilt 4 yrs ago and never used, It has 3.54 centre (which I can change to a 4.77) maxi drive axles, the Stage I CV's and good chrome swivels. It also has the 11" drums which are wider.
So maybe what I could use that diff, but it's very not original I guess, CV's instead of Uni's. The only give away would be the bigger brakes from looking at it from the outside.

Can you fit the 11" drums to the SWB rear? As I would retain that in the rear.

Any infomation Is muchly appreciated, Thank you for everyones help.

Originally Posted by UncleHo

G'day Guru036

There is also a 3rd motor listed, 1954 this could be the last of the 1600 cc motors from the 80's but there are no numbers listed.


I would say that the *** motors would be "Siamese Bore" and that ** would be "Spread Bore" as they went on until the 2 1/4 litre OHV

Hope that is some help

Cheers

Uncle, the engine changed before 1954 as the last of the 80's had 2 litre siamese bore I think introduced in '51 or '52.
Perry

G'day Guru036

That Chassis No of 277600906 would put your vehicle as the 905th C.K.D. RHD export 107 inch vehicle of 1955 going by the master parts book lists, and yes you can put 11" LWB rear brake backing plates and drums on your rear axle to replace the 10" ones, you can also put the drums and backing plate from the Stage 1 on to the front that would then give 3' wide front brakes in front, but, make sure that you have a 1" bore Master cylinder, otherwise you will not be able to exert enough hydraulic pressure to stop the vehicle (I am aware of several Fatalities where a vehicle that has brakes upgraded still had the 3/4 inch Master Cylinder[SWB] ) the front springs would best be left original as they are matched to the engine weight and body type, it would be better to remove them, clean up with a wire brush on an angle grinder, lightly chamfer the top of each leaf, paint and reassemble with new bushes(original type),the ride will be greatly improved I did this to my badly rusted springs on the 2a 15 years ago and have not had any sag or problems but the bushes are showing signs of wear now.


I will help with any information that you need, with the books that I have, was a Landrover Spares man for years and my daily driver is a 2a Ex-Army LWB

cheers

Thanks mate...all the online info still pointed to 1956... But I think your book would be closest to accurate.

As for brakes, I was thinking keeping the rear diff as is and fit the 11" drums. But might not fit the Wider 11" StageI to the front, just some normal 11" drums.

Originally Posted by Guru036

Thanks mate...all the online info still pointed to 1956... But I think your book would be closest to accurate.

As for brakes, I was thinking keeping the rear diff as is and fit the 11" drums. But might not fit the Wider 11" StageI to the front, just some normal 11" drums.

I would fit the 11" drums front and rear, as otherwise you can expect balance problems. The master cylinder is presumably a lwb one designed for the 11" brakes but it is a bit of a bitza so it needs checking. the 10" brakes are not adequate for the lwb, even with the small engine! I understand Series 1 master cylinders are hard to find or even get bits for, but I also understand the Series 2 master cylinder can be adapted.

The stage 1 axle, while it would work, is probably not a really good idea, as, looking to the future, parts for it are probably even harder to find than Series 1 parts - and Series 2/2a/3 parts for the axles you have are very easy.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The stage 1 axle, while it would work, is probably not a really good idea, as, looking to the future, parts for it are probably even harder to find than Series 1 parts - and Series 2/2a/3 parts for the axles you have are very easy.

John

I disagree. Most of the bits are the same as other models, only the casing is truly unique. Brakes are the same as a 6cyl, diffs are the same as rover diffs, CVs are AEU1811 which are identical to AEU2522 (110 county), except for the stub shaft length - meaning you just need modified hubs or drive flanges, hubs are the same as 110 (county) rears (apart from the drive flange bolt pattern - so swapping CVs and hubs and drive flanges to 110 county would be bolt-on. Stub axles (spindles) are the same as early RRC/110 (I think).

So a bit of fiddling around, but most of the "unique" parts are bits that don't need replacing anyway.

IMO - the only downside of the stage 1 diff is that the nose of the diff is rotated upwards (pointing straight at the t-case). However in my case I have never had any vibration problems using a standard IIA dront prop (unis are slightly out of phase though).

John - are you sure the springs weren't outboarded on the 109" S1 wagons???

Dave - if you aren't planning on carrying much weight - maybe try a set of 88" SWB springs if you have them lying around. They are only 160lb/in - so fairly soft, but they would give a VERY comfortable ride and flex amazingly.

How does the weight of the 2L compare to a rover V8???