Series I Info

**Guru036** · 16th July 2007, 02:02 PM

Found a Vehicle plate in the Car, from a Series IIA. Chassis number (suffixC) makes it a 1966/67 and I would say this is where the diffs and steering has come from.

Brake MC is CB style as it has the big nut on the end, but the rest of the casting looks abit smaller, maybe it is original Series I. If that is the case is the later CB Style actualy a bigger bore??

will definetly fit the 11" brakes (front and rear).

The Stage I Diff I have - Is assembled in a Series IIA Casing (original casing was damaged), As for the other differences, from what I can tell the swivel balls are exactly the same, infact you could fit the bearing in it to fun the Uni joint shafts (they made a spacer to fit in the large hole to carry the oil seal) So I could refit the original shafts if i wanted to and all the other brakes etc.

But with Maxi alxes and standard CV's I can't see the 2L doing any damage to them, brake shoes would be the only hard part, but they are all the same as SIII Ex-army Landy's cause of the 6Cyl.

As for springs, don't have a set of 88's rear lying around but sure I could get a set cheap. If I don't get an original tray I would be making a nice wooden flatbed

**Guru036** · 16th July 2007, 02:11 PM

Just had alook at the MC. It's only got 2 bolt holes. and it's just bolted to the chassis, and it don't look as small as I thought it was. looks like a CB type.

How do I know what size bore it's got? just take it off and measure It I guess??

**isuzurover** · 16th July 2007, 02:48 PM

Originally Posted by Guru036

Just had alook at the MC. It's only got 2 bolt holes. and it's just bolted to the chassis, and it don't look as small as I thought it was. looks like a CB type.

How do I know what size bore it's got? just take it off and measure It I guess??

If it is a SII/A MC then there is a big difference in size between the 88" and the 109" (1" bore versions). Both in diameter AND length. the 109" version is at least 1" longer.

Off-topic - when I bought my 109" IIA, the PO had fitted it with an 88" MC. When I rebuilt the truck the MC was fine so I left it alone, later when I needed a rebuild kit I found out.

with 11" drums and a SWB MC, it was VERY finnicky with brake adjustment to get a proper pedal height. However - less pressure was required to stop than with the larger MC.

**JDNSW** · 16th July 2007, 07:00 PM

Originally Posted by Guru036

Just had alook at the MC. It's only got 2 bolt holes. and it's just bolted to the chassis, and it don't look as small as I thought it was. looks like a CB type.

How do I know what size bore it's got? just take it off and measure It I guess??

Measure it. The original S1 master cylinder looks very similar to the CB type. There was an article about it in one of the UK magazines I read about a year ago - you can adapt the CB M/C to use in the Series 1 - I can't remember what was needed, but it may have been the mounting method, as the S2 cyylinder has two bolts and the S1 has three and certainly it needs a better rubber boot as it is very exposed. It sounds like you have a S2 cylinder.

One point to look at when working on the brakes is to make sure that the brake pedal itself does not have any areas where rust has eaten away the metal. (Clutch pedal too, but loss of clutch is less serious!)

John

**Guru036** · 16th July 2007, 07:27 PM

Yeah I'll measure it.

If I run the series II CB type MC and the Stage I front with the 11" brakes and 11" rears that will sort the brakes out.

Just need to work out if the engine is the original or just correct for the time. Mind you I guess If I'm not running the original diffs it won't matter too much. Will get the correct carby, is it a solex on the 2L ??

Will also keep an eye on steering box and wheel

**JDNSW** · 16th July 2007, 07:42 PM

Originally Posted by Guru036

Yeah I'll measure it.

If I run the series II CB type MC and the Stage I front with the 11" brakes and 11" rears that will sort the brakes out.

Just need to work out if the engine is the original or just correct for the time. Mind you I guess If I'm not running the original diffs it won't matter too much. Will get the correct carby, is it a solex on the 2L ??

Will also keep an eye on steering box and wheel

Yes, Solex, I don't have a model number for it though.

A Series 2 lwb CB master cylinder with 11" brakes should work well - the different pedal arrangement won't make any difference, but you need to see if you can find a better boot than the standard one to try and keep the dirt out.

John

**Guru036** · 17th July 2007, 04:24 AM

Cool.

Thanks heaps for all your help.

Happen to know where I can find some good pictures of an original SI 86 or 107 ?? mainly for detailed under the bonnet.

Also I am planning to get all the galvinising redone, I did it on my old series IIA and makes such a differance, but on that I just pop riveted it back together, how hard is it to find original style rivets and fit them??

Also will be painting it bronze green instead of grey like it was originally

**JDNSW** · 17th July 2007, 05:43 AM

Originally Posted by Guru036

Cool.

Thanks heaps for all your help.

1. Happen to know where I can find some good pictures of an original SI 86 or 107 ?? mainly for detailed under the bonnet.

2. Also I am planning to get all the galvinising redone, I did it on my old series IIA and makes such a differance, but on that I just pop riveted it back together, how hard is it to find original style rivets and fit them??

3. Also will be painting it bronze green instead of grey like it was originally

1. Go to the Expo in Penrith next Sunday and take your camera.

2. Rivets should be available from any specialist fastener supplier, although you will have to work out what to ask for. You will also need the correct tools to close the rivets, any competent machinist should be able to make these for you, although for best results they should be heat treated and this will be harder to find people to do. It would be much easier with a jig to hold the punch and die in line, although this is not absolutely necessary. Some of the gadgets used in aviation to temporarily hold bits in place while rivetting would be useful or you could put in some pop rivets temporarily and drill them out later, replacing them with the right ones.

3. Up to you what colour you paint it, but although I understand green was available, my memory is that in that time frame lwbs were invariably grey, with swb invariably green.

John

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