Most after market rims I have seen are crap and are made of butter! Other than not being strong enough, the other typical problems I have seen are that they don't actually fit the hub properly and so cause big problems with the stability at speed.
IMO, stick with either 130 or Wolf rims.
M
PS... Get yourself another tyre guy.
PPS... Or if you really want to p1ss him off, get him to fit a set of Michelin XZLs onto Wolf rims.![]()
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
I was fed the same rubbish about LR wheels having no safety beads and having leaking rivets by a bloke who sold me a set of crap light truck tyres because 'the Land Rover ones were unavailable'. From that read 'less profit' maybe, or 'I don't have them here'. I have since run on ex. works Defender rims with tubeless tyres for about 9 years at all pressures with no problems on rocks, sand and highway. Inner tubes are a pain except for floating children (and adults with a cold tinnie) down rivers when it's hot.
Well I have cerimoniousely ditched my standard rims purely because tubes kept failing. I was getting a flat tyre every 3 months or so
No tyre guys could tell me why but my brother, a mechanic said the tubeless tyres are ruff on the inside and damage the tube. So I ran 40 psi (to reduce movement between tyre & tube) everywhere I went except off road but would re-inflate even for short trips at speed between tracks, Cheesed the other blokes off a bit but do I care? No I drive a Land Rover
Mine were the rivetted 110 style.
As a foot note; none of the local tyre blokes would even consider putting tyres on without tubes.
FWIW, Late model 130 rims are available in either tubed (no internal or 'safety' bead) and tubeless. After welding quite a few tubes to tyres, and having one catastrophic deflation at over 100km/h in a corner on the Putty Rd and the tyre rolling off the rim, two different tyre fitters suggested I run the tyres tubeless on the tubed rims as the bead area is so damn wide.
Illegal ? Probably.
Safe ? Haven't had a problem in the last five years. Think of it this way. If you have a puncture and the tube/tyre deflates on a tubed rim, what will keep the tyre on the rim ?
Tyres often have ribbed sections inside which, I have been told, abrades tubes and cause leaks.
Dunno - but I never had any problems running tubeless tyres on my old RR steel rims.
Ron
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Yes Ron, but the Ro Style steels from old RR's were rated for tubeless tyres.
Numpty
Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
REMLR No 143
The only catastrophic tyre failure I have had was with tubed tyres on the steel rims. Tyre blew at 100kmh on the freeway. Tyre had a verticle tear all the way through the side wall. Tube was also buggered. I prefer tubeless.
Happy with the Landy rims though so if they are chucking them just save em.
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