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Thread: Free Wheel Hubs,

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by landyfromanuthaland View Post
    scare away, I wont be parting with my Landys anytime soon, I want more , I think the missus needs a SWB2a as a shopping trolley then we can dump the AU, just to keep it all the same marque, I rewired a 2a from scratch nothing scares me on a 2a or 3, hate the 3 dash though, if I could get away with it I would put a 2A dash in mine, I hate plastic its such rubbish, I though the series were fairly bomb proof in the drive train and related hardware, dont here of many breaking shafts etc lets not hex us all, touch wood immediately!
    Must hunt through the threads.
    A member here posted photo's of his hand made alloy checker plate S3 dash replacement. It really does look truck.
    From my own painful experience, a little checker plate to replace the floor plates is a good idea too. First rain this year, down the main street, right foot on floor plate, next I new, I was flat on my back on the black top.
    Just not good for an old sailor with a bung left shoulder, three busted vertebra a twisted spine and a had it left hip.

    Doesn't mean I will part with her. I'm just a little more careful getting in and out.

  2. #12
    landyfromanuthaland Guest
    funny u say that I have alloy chequer plate for the floors and foot wells just to give her that technical look, I have an old jag dash centre section I am gonna mess with one day, gives me 4 extra guage holes and about 300 switches to drive me mad, its all fun I guess

  3. #13
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    so apart from

    • not lubing the Ujs in the axle correctly
    • not lubricating the top siwvel bearing
    • allowing the drive shaft to stay staionary while bouncing thus hammering the bearings in the Ujs that dont turn
    • if not installed correctly allowing the uj to slide out from between the swivel pins and having arc stress put on it
    • hammering the axle housing side axle support bearing
    • leaving the front diff not turning and letting it rattle on the same pairs of crown and pinion teeth
    • leaving the front propshaft stationary allowing the slip joing to hammer
    • leaking bearing lube out and letting the inside world into the wheel bearings
    • sliping out of lock when you need them leaving you in 2wd when you should be in 4 and
    • occasionally eating themselves leaving you in butfart nowhere in permanant 2wd

    they have the upshot of letting you occasionally select low range 2wd without worrying about windup?

    Throw a couple of buckets of sand onto the black top where your going to be turning or if your on concrete wet it down.


    Now I should also point out that not all of those things happen to all of the types of FWH but at least some of them will.
    And most of them don't happen if you leave them normally locked and only unlock them for long bitumen trips, rather than the usual normally unlocked.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #14
    crossy Guest
    I would never part with my FWH. no way, not in a million years.

    most of the time they are locked in any way, except for hwy trips. I certainly notice a big differance. (locked in = undrivable at high speed - due to big front shaft angle + sloppy prop splines )

    gotta love part time 4x4 and fwh, can get away with dodgy setups!

  5. #15
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    How to go back to standard hubs?

    Hi, question on this FWhubs topic for Blknight or JDNSW, My S3 has old Selectro hubs, what bits do I need to get to move it back to standard hubs?

    Thanks
    Bernie
    D2 TD5 Manual

  6. #16
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Designosaur View Post
    Hi, question on this FWhubs topic for Blknight or JDNSW, My S3 has old Selectro hubs, what bits do I need to get to move it back to standard hubs?

    Thanks
    Bernie
    2 each of Drive flange, gasket, seal, hubcap (part numbers except hubcap &gasket different for 10 or 24 spline axles - swb are 10 spline in early production, all lwb and late swb are 24 spline), plus, depending on the free wheel hub, nut, washer and split pin.

    12 each bolts 215331 and spring washers. These are BSF so might be a bit hard to find at your local fastener supplier.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    And most of them don't happen if you leave them normally locked and only unlock them for long bitumen trips, rather than the usual normally unlocked.

    John
    Certainly with you on this one John, I had a 71 SIIa SWB, superwinch hubs, kept them locked around town, used 4wd to back up a short steep gravel drive without spinning rear wheels & kept everything lubed. Unlock for long trips & stop & lock leaving tarmac well before I needed to. Seen too many only think to lock in Hubs when they're already up to their ar5es in Alligators (or salt water crocs ) They made an appreciable difference to smoothness on the road when unlocked at over 70kph, & no, I didn't have stiff universals or knackered prop shaft splines, barely perceptible wear in them. But freehubs do need to be managed & those running into trouble because of them are probably guilty of not doing so. Funnily enough a similar thread on one of the Pommy forums produced almost exactly similar responses Scarey eh?
    Steve.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    2 each of Drive flange, gasket, seal, hubcap (part numbers except hubcap &gasket different for 10 or 24 spline axles - swb are 10 spline in early production, all lwb and late swb are 24 spline), plus, depending on the free wheel hub, nut, washer and split pin.

    12 each bolts 215331 and spring washers. These are BSF so might be a bit hard to find at your local fastener supplier.

    John
    Thanks John!
    D2 TD5 Manual

  9. #19
    mcrover Guest
    I had them on mine, I never disenguaged them as I never really had the need, as with George and my Dad who were the 2 previous owners to me as it was mainly used off road in the paddock or the bush.

    I drove it to Melb a couple of times and just didnt even think of disenguaging them.

    I have found that with Hilux's mainly, the steering gets very heavy on the early ones without power steering with the Hubs locked but this isnt the case with Landies.

    If you were going on a 2hr hwy trip once a week, I would say they would be worth it as long as you were enguaging them when back around home but I dont think many of you series drivers are doing huge Hwy Ks all that often these days.

  10. #20
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    Relative merits of FWH brands?

    Quote Originally Posted by shinz View Post
    Certainly with you on this one John, I had a 71 SIIa SWB, superwinch hubs, kept them locked around town, used 4wd to back up a short steep gravel drive without spinning rear wheels & kept everything lubed. Unlock for long trips & stop & lock leaving tarmac well before I needed to. Seen too many only think to lock in Hubs when they're already up to their ar5es in Alligators (or salt water crocs ) They made an appreciable difference to smoothness on the road when unlocked at over 70kph, & no, I didn't have stiff universals or knackered prop shaft splines, barely perceptible wear in them. But freehubs do need to be managed & those running into trouble because of them are probably guilty of not doing so. Funnily enough a similar thread on one of the Pommy forums produced almost exactly similar responses Scarey eh?
    Steve.
    OK, I'll butt in here and light the blue touch paper ;-)

    1. What brands of FWH are available to suit a SIII LWB; and
    2. Of those brands, which have the better reputation for trouble-free durability?

    ???

    Doug
    ---------------------------------------------
    "Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak."

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