Dont you just hate warranty!

mcrover · 15th August 2007, 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by landyfromanuthaland

U are not alone, just give the drum and say fix the friggin thing or u will get more bad publicity then they could handle, the amount of guys onthis site and a good percentage would be off roaders who would like to keep stuff cold, this neg publicity is bad for them sales wise and doesnt say much for the product either, run the product must be of merchandisable quality line, stick it too em , u pay big bux for a fridge like this u last thing u want is a lemon, I have a silmilar drama with a genset at the moment thet refuses start know matter how big the stick is I hit it with, really gives u the rats I tell u.

Settle down andy, try the pull start, hitting it with a stick will only void your warrenty.

You have to get the full story first and at the moment we only have the fridges side of the story, the power has to come from somewhere.

**Utemad** · 15th August 2007, 08:29 PM

Did you send them your cable? Did they test it using your cable if you did?

I had the motor control board replaced in mine and it fixed my problem but it still had issues (with a CF-80). However I thought. I'll cut off the merit plug and use one of those T looking clipsal 32v plugs. When I took the merit plug off the little copper crimp fell off one of the wires. I think it is safe to say that it was causing the low voltage to the fridge.

I rang Waeco about the dodgy plug and they couriered me a new cable

So now I have the cable with the clipsal plug for the car and the cable with the merit plug for the inverter.

Edit: My problem was that the fridge ran constantly but did not cool. Even though it ran constantly, it was cycling. It would run for a set time and then stop. Immediately followed by a 'clunk' and then it would cycle again, over and over. This was an intermittent fault although once it started it would keep playing up. Whereas other weekends it would run fine.

**crump** · 16th August 2007, 04:59 AM

Originally Posted by Utemad

Did you send them your cable? Did they test it using your cable if you did?

I had the motor control board replaced in mine and it fixed my problem but it still had issues (with a CF-80). However I thought. I'll cut off the merit plug and use one of those T looking clipsal 32v plugs. When I took the merit plug off the little copper crimp fell off one of the wires. I think it is safe to say that it was causing the low voltage to the fridge.

I rang Waeco about the dodgy plug and they couriered me a new cable

So now I have the cable with the clipsal plug for the car and the cable with the merit plug for the inverter.

Edit: My problem was that the fridge ran constantly but did not cool. Even though it ran constantly, it was cycling. It would run for a set time and then stop. Immediately followed by a 'clunk' and then it would cycle again, over and over. This was an intermittent fault although once it started it would keep playing up. Whereas other weekends it would run fine.

thats exactly what mine is doing and a mates from up here (he sent it back 3 times), I am reading 12.3 volts at the fridge plug as it cuts out, it will only run with the motor running, going to talk to the local sparky and get him to remove the entire low voltage cutout circuit.

**Captain_Rightfoot** · 16th August 2007, 05:14 AM

I know this is probably not helping you Crump, but the Engle due to it's unique motor design can't burn out, and so keeps working to very low voltages. When I had a charge problem I was surprised to hear it humming away happily on 9 volts one morning.

**Utemad** · 16th August 2007, 04:36 PM

Originally Posted by crump

thats exactly what mine is doing and a mates from up here (he sent it back 3 times), I am reading 12.3 volts at the fridge plug as it cuts out, it will only run with the motor running, going to talk to the local sparky and get him to remove the entire low voltage cutout circuit.

Does yours flash 3 lights?

That means motor control board or the motor itself. I had to return mine twice. The second time I explained to them exactly what was wrong, what needed replacing and that I was not taking it back unless it was changed.

When you say 12.3v at the fridge plug, where is that?

When I diagnosed the voltage loss in my cable I measured the losses between each join from the battery to inside the fridge. I had more voltage loss between the inside of the merit plug to the inside of the fridge than from the battery (in engine bay) to the merit plug.

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