Thread: auto in discovery

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

electronic ZF, works fine,,(wonderful on sand)
just doesnt kick down fast enough,,

I know someone who can fix that......

97 TDi Auto, requires rebuild lowest quote $2400 highest $4000

When under load on steep hills eg low range-drive 4wding working, tend to spit oil out of dipstick tube.

Also had over heating issues in Vic High country, mind you was towing camper up Hearn Spur and Collingwood spur.

Saying all that still driving it and touch wood still going, sometimes in cold doesn't want to change up.

Best box for rock hopping, autos are the choice of rock crawlers

Have to put my 2 bob in - not exactly the same box but basically same internal components 95 P38 Rangie - major clutch disintegration at 140,000K's. Relatively cheap as a replace with low k wreck rather than rebuild as not too many of my type fail so spares are cheapish at the wreckers.

Mind you I had done 20,000K's of HEAVY towing with that car up and down the Adelaide hills and have done some since.

Originally Posted by DiscoDan

97 TDi Auto, requires rebuild lowest quote $2400 highest $4000

When under load on steep hills eg low range-drive 4wding working, tend to spit oil out of dipstick tube.

Also had over heating issues in Vic High country, mind you was towing camper up Hearn Spur and Collingwood spur.

Saying all that still driving it and touch wood still going, sometimes in cold doesn't want to change up.

Best box for rock hopping, autos are the choice of rock crawlers

Wow, towing a camper up hearns and collingwood spur, your keen I wouldn't do it for the reasons you just stated

Originally Posted by dm0011

d is mine a ZF auto anyone know?

Yes. They have been ZF 4-speeds in most full-size LR from 1986 until the D3. I think the D3/RRS use a ZF with more gears. Not sure about the L322 RR.

Ron

I don't want to hijack the thread but I need some info on 95-99 series 1 discos. I'm finally ready to buy and want to spend about $10k (give or take $2k I guess) + fit accessories.

My primary reason for getting a 300Tdi is for long distance touring/4wding (eventually Cape York next winter), however a close secondary reason is to tow our 750kg float with either 1 or 2 big warmbloods (when this EI thing lets us move them ).

So 2 questions:
1) Auto or manual for the towing? and what sort of difference in fuel consumption between them?
2) Are those auto boxes decent for crawling downhill in 1st low, or do you have to ride the brakes the whole way?

I've done an average amount of 4wd work in both large 4x4's and 13t isuzu firetrucks, but never in an auto. I'm not into rock crawling or anything like that but would be doing fairly serious off road work in our beautiful backyard: the New England Tablelands

Thanks

I'll pick the manual...

they arent as easy to do it with as the autos but..

they engine brake better, stay in the gear you put them in, dont require faffing with or overrunning the brakes to do controled descents, dont get stroppy when the oil gets old or a little low, dont eat flex plates, generally dont over heat and best of all


If for some reason you damage something external to the box and it makes it dump all the oil you stay in gear with a manual and dont wind up free wheeling when you dont want to...


they are also cheaper to repair/rebuiild and almost anyone can do a manual rebuild, Autos are a dark art.

having said all of the above,,
on any decent hill a manual diesel may not budge it off the line,,