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Thread: roof ventilators ( house )

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Yes, you could do what they do with Evap Coolers. Tie a plastic cover or UV plastic bag over them.

    When I first mentioned this the bloke said all he did was put a long screw through it to stop it rotating.

    But I think you would still want them to ventilate the roof space ONLY, in Winter, as Kitchen & Bathroom exhaust fans normally discharge into the roof space & they would assist in reducing the build up of excess moisture.
    Yes from my reading ventilators do provide benefit in winter too.
    On that subject, this is interesting
    http://www.condorvent.com.au/comparison.html

    The guy's theory is that the "whirly-gig" ventilators ar primarily a "winter" device and his inert design works much better in cooling houses in summer -
    maybe i bought the wrong thing oh well - might need to try Blknightts "mod" and put a fan in them.

  2. #22
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    Tote. Slightly OT
    When I was doing Refrigeration Maintenance I did a run every couple of months through the country & this old Farmer's Union Cheese factory on the Western shore of Lake Alexandrina at Milang, was one of the places I visited.

    Under the road in the foreground is a brick/stone tunnel that starts in the storage area & finishes up in a steel grille on the bank of the lake.

    The lake breezes flowed through this & cooled the cheese rounds in the store.

    I think the grille is blocked now, but I will reinvestigate this week when I take a drive there to see just how much the poor old lake has dropped. It didn't look good last photo I saw.

    lanyfromanutherland may also be interested.
    Last edited by p38arover; 21st May 2011 at 08:10 PM.

  3. #23
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    Lake Alexandrina a couple of years ago. It's much lower now.



  4. #24
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    a hand full of things...

    1. industrial rolls of alfoil make excellent under tile insulation when backed with the cheapy rolls of speaker padding insulation alfoil to the tiles and then staple the insulation tightly under them on the supporting timbers

    2. you can get a winged butterfly that attaches to the bottom of the whily gigs and has a pull cable on it, route the cable and extend as required to your man hole and come winter you can just release the cables and the butterfly springs back... (assuming you dont let them rust...

    3. when you put them in put walk boards onto your main trusses so you can get to them easily for a few reasons

    We had birds trying to nest in one of ours so had to crawl the space to get to them

    when the bearings develop a squeek they will drive you insane as the squeek does not remain constant so its hard to tune out.

    ditto for when you get a bird strike on one and it gets a ding that makes it scrape and stick.

    since youve put walkboards in you can now start extending them and using the roof space to store shoebox sized boxes of stuff you want to keep cleanish and dry and out of harms (or prying eyes) way
    Dave

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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by waynep View Post
    I'm no builder but I beleive sarking is the stuff they put directly under the tiles. It used to be a bitumeous paper but these days its more like a aluminium coated paper. I believe it is supposed to stop the condensation from the tiles dripping on to the ceiling ? Any roofers / builders on here will correct me I'm sure. As far as the ventilation part goes, if you've got sarking then no air can flow in between the tiles and out through the ventilators, therefore you need to install vents under the eaves.

    Yes your place sounds exactly like our setup.

    on newer houses they don't sark unless you request it, it used to be mandatory for tiles because they can chip with time and crack.

    the more modern stuff has thermal qualities

    here

    http://www.insulationsolutions.com.a...lation-438.pdf

    with the roof ventilators you need to be able to replace the air in the roof cavity, as it heats up on a hot day and doesn;t go anywhere, the gap in tiles is not enough to give you a full cycle of air movement. eave vents are, remember the hot air rises principle.
    If you are a closet smoker, once you have installed eave vents, just put a lighted cigarette under each one, if all is working correctly the smoke should be drawn up.


    john

  6. #26
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    Well that was easy

    ... I installed the two whirlygigs and the eave vents on Saturday all in about 3 hours.

    ...they were really spinning on Sunday with all the wind.

  7. #27
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    roof ventilators ( house )

    In my past life I spent a lot of time in roof spaces. I am amazed that tile roofs that do not have sarking are actually waterproof. If you look around you see daylight through most tile joints (between rows), so the provision of vents in the gable ends is almost superfluous. Jim
    Jim VK2MAD
    -------------------------
    '17 Isuzu D-Max

  8. #28
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    I have half done mine in that I have put in eave vents and am "gunna" put in the whirlygig I have had lying in the garage for a couple of years.

    Even the eave vents increase air circulation greatly . On a windy day you can feel the flow from the downwind side.

    My plan is to get a closable vent for the manhole cover , or just get another piece of fibre cement and bore lots of holes, and to put a matching vent inside the linen cupboard to draw cool air from under the house. Then close them off in winter.
    However SWMBO always objects when I go to get on the roof even to fix broken tiles( of which I have lots due to my overhanging Gums).
    Anyone know where I can source a closable vent to fit in a manhole cover? I have tried Bunnings etc and on line but no luck.
    Regard sPhilip A

  9. #29
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    Try an AC Contractor who specialises in Evaporative Coolers as that is about the size diffuser you are talking.
    You can get manually closed blades in the segments or you could fit a diffuser box over the neck & control it remotely with a motorised Damper. No ladders etc.

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