No more Salisburys..

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Yes they are huge but rarely let you down, the p38a diffs on the Defender Xtreme are already letting people down. A recent Simpson Desert trip - failures in Defender front p38a diffs on 2 separate vehicles.
Diana

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The two diffs that failed on the recent Simpson Desert trip were caused by the bolts securing the crown wheel to the hemisphere coming loose. The resultant movement between these two components then caused one of the bolt heads to shear off and become tangled up between the CW&P, thereby adding to the loose metal floating around and accellerating the damage.

It is believed that this potential problem could be averted by drilling a hole through each of the bolt heads and wiring them together, like the older Series Landy diffs were. Maybe still use Locktite also .......... but don't rely on Locktite alone in this situation.

It is also obvious that the failures on the Simpson trip were totally unrelated to that particular trip, as the first failure occurred while we were still on the 'black ribbon' and only about 500kms out of Sydney.
The common thing with both failures is that each vehicle had been driven at some earlier stage on their front diffs only - as a result of some other failure in their rear drivetrain, and this may have contributed to the bolts loosening.

I will be wiring the crown wheel bolts on all of my diffs ASAP and also adding a note to inspect their security at each major service.

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

Broken diffs.... In my experience, broken diffs are usually caused by poor driving technique. Typically sudden shock loading (dumping clutch, etc...) or heavy gunning of the throttle. It's also the main cause of failures in the rest of the drive train.

As for the strength of the casing itself... Other than the obvious one of smacking it into rocks, overloading and heavy landings are the other main causes of damage. All of which can and should be avoided.

M

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I agree. Everything has its limits and all components need to work together and in harmony - not just mechanicals but also driver.
Some of you may not remember the racing car builder and driver Jack Brabham, but he was one who understood his cars and knew just how far and how hard he could push them and the results speak for themselves.

Has anyone had any experience with the following or know anything about them?

Nº Nekarth: DIKL- 03 -Z=24
Similar Nr: Category: Off Roads / Land Rover LineDescription: KAISER SMART DIFFERENTIALApplication: LAND ROVER FRONT / REAR (Z=24)
See:

Nekarth

wiring of CWP bolts shouldn't be necessary if the correct grade of Loctite is used and it is used in the appropriate manner.
There are tens of millions of vehicles travelling around the world without them being lock-wired, however, if you do want to lock-wire them, make sure you have a jig so you can drill the heads of the bolts and use the appropriate lock-wire. Having drilled high tensile bolt heads for lock-wire, it's an absolute cow and a jig makes it a million times easier.

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

Has anyone had any experience with the following or know anything about them?

Nº Nekarth: DIKL- 03 -Z=24
Similar Nr: Category: Off Roads / Land Rover LineDescription: KAISER SMART DIFFERENTIALApplication: LAND ROVER FRONT / REAR (Z=24)
See:

Nekarth

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Looks to me like a competitor to a Quaiffe or Trutrac.

Even with these bolted up to the crown wheel, flexing still occurs. In my case its a Maxidrive locker attached.

Regards
Max P

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

Broken diffs.... In my experience, broken diffs are usually caused by poor driving technique. Typically sudden shock loading (dumping clutch, etc...) or heavy gunning of the throttle. It's also the main cause of failures in the rest of the drive train.

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Not necessarily - depends on the terrain and conditions you are driving in. Sure - if you have standard sized tyres and only drive on the road or muddy UK greenlanes then I agree. It is MUCH harder to break things if you mainly drive in muddy conditions than rocks, etc.

There are plenty of occasions when a crownwheel can break without any obvious abuse... I have seen crownwheels break during (easy) snatch recovery (sure this places some shock loads on the diff).

There is no way I would own a 110 or 130 with a rover rear diff.

I can't believe the mentality of this company. They've had issues with the weak CW&P on the Rover diff for a long time, so rather than strengthening the unit, they put it on the rear!. What a bunch of stupid gits!.

People ask me about my vehicle, and are genuinely interested, especially when you mention things like reliability and strength of components. The conversation inevitably ends with, 'well what do you reckon the new ones are like?'. From now on I'll be telling them they're shyte. Weaker gearbox, diffs, running gear, electrics/electronics, roof, and bonnet!. I'm all for moderisation, but not when it's a backward step!. When you bring out an updated model, it's supposed to be better than the previous!!!. It really must be a sheltered workshop over there!.

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Originally Posted by Scouse

Yes, steel.

Why ?
For "dent resistance" & "stiffness".

The new doors don't bow out at speed like the old ones did (I hadn't noticed a problem....) & therefore create less windnoise.

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If alloy panels the of the same mass as the steel ones were used, they would be stiffer and more dent resistant since the material would be thicker, more than twice as thick as the steel. They could even go back to the panel thickness used on the Series Landrovers!

The only reason for going to steel is as a simple and easy way to reduce costs, probably as much by having the entire assembly spot or seam welded together as by the saving in material cost. There is probably a further manufacturing advantage in the painting preparation as well.

John

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Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI

...I'm all for moderisation, but not when it's a backward step!. When you bring out an updated model, it's supposed to be better than the previous!!!. It really must be a sheltered workshop over there!.

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.....................FORDLand-Rover Design Motto.......................

Cost$ Vs Profit$ Cost$ Vs Profit$ Cost$ Vs Profit$ Cost$ Vs Profit$

---------------------------- Ford Shareholder Satisfaction. ---------------------------

->->->->->:angrylock: ->->->->-> :mad: ->->->->-> :( ->->->->-> :o ->->->->-> :) ->->->->-> :D->->->->->

->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->-> TIME ->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->->

---------------------------- Customer Satisfaction. ---------------------------

->->->->->:D ->->->->-> :p ->->->->-> :) ->->->->-> :( ->->->->->:o ->->->->->:mad: ->->->->->:angrylock:->->->->->

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI

I can't believe the mentality of this company. They've had issues with the weak CW&P on the Rover diff for a long time, so rather than strengthening the unit, they put it on the rear!. What a bunch of stupid gits!.

People ask me about my vehicle, and are genuinely interested, especially when you mention things like reliability and strength of components. The conversation inevitably ends with, 'well what do you reckon the new ones are like?'. From now on I'll be telling them they're shyte. Weaker gearbox, diffs, running gear, electrics/electronics, roof, and bonnet!. I'm all for moderisation, but not when it's a backward step!. When you bring out an updated model, it's supposed to be better than the previous!!!. It really must be a sheltered workshop over there!.

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Couldn't agree more - Land Rov er must surely be the ONLY manufacturer in the world still using spiral bevel diffs (rather than hypoid).