Sorry my bad, as I said they werent my jobs and were pulled apart when I saw them and it was either one of the the centre shafts or 2 pinion gears that were broken in all 3 TC's but yes, thinking about it they are 4 pinion.
Ive never had a LR diff apart yet and never looked at one closely at my mates shop so I'll take your word for it on that as I have no reason not to.
But Matt, they do break and they dont take that much as I explained before but like I said it's your centre diff and your repairs so do as you want.
As far as Daves guide goes, yeah fair enough i'll pretty much go with that as well but taking in account that if your loading it up heavilly in reverse and there is the chance of wheel slip (even if on a solid surface) then lock the CDL as your not going to be going far enough to really wind up the rest of the componants for short distance reversing.
As far as driveline componant wear, Ive been driving mine like this for nearly 170,000kms on and off road and havnt broken anything in the driveline yet, I do have a bit of backlash in the driveline componants but it has just about done 300000kms so by then you have to expect some wear.
If there is no centre diff in the driveline, as you drive along you end up with the drive train having excessive pressure on the drive shafts and axels due to front or rear axels wanting to run at slightly different speeds due to cornering, different tyre sizes, pressures, wear or basically any ratio differences in the driveline.
This will cause the CDL to have load on it and make it difficult to disenguage.
To overcome this, try reversing while pulling the CDL lever across as it should unload it enough to disenguage.
If you are running different sized tyres it will make it difficult to steer and will make driving it a bit more difficult than it should be, sometimes different tread patterns, constructions and brands will do the same and that is 1 reason that there are roadworthy laws regarding this sort of issue but thats another story.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
Thanks Baz, makes sense.
The D3 is a truly great car and I love it as a daily driver, but for a weekend drive out (on or off-road) I prefer to drive the 110 Isuzu! Windows wound right down (air con is broken), loads of gearbox whine (needs new bearings), lots of noise, wanders around (needs new bushes), heat, unable to hold a conversation without shouting, planning overtaking maneuvers 1km in advance...... It's just so much more involving, smile inducing and full of out right character! I love it!
OK, so now im confused. Are we saying that at most times (off bitumen) its best to still engage CDL (in Low Range) even tho you know you have traction 99% of the time whilst on that surface. Isnt that just putting strain on the system?
What ive been doing is only engaging CDL when im unsure of wheel traction... ie, mud, sand and water crossings. Anything else, like compact dirt roads I see no point, but if you guys are saying low range without CDL can break stuff, what the go with the original design then??
If for no other reason---
you should engage the CDL REGULARLY to keep the linkages lubricated.
half the problem with "sticky" "hard to release" CDLs is lack of use![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
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Put simply, IN MY OPINION (and thats all it is) is that there is less chance of damage while using the CDL Locked than un locked unless on solid surfaces where wind up is likely.
Damage from driveline wind up doesnt happen from backing the caravan 20metres up a driveway but if you skipped a wheel on a gutter then you could quite easilly damage your centre diff.
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