MaxTrax used today

**Aaron** · 6th February 2008, 05:37 PM

Got my Hilux stuck today in the front yard.

Not sure how to say this, there is no easy way to say it. They didn't work :P

Had I got a shovel and cleared some room to wedge them in furthuer they would have. Had there been an AT/MT even a Grabber tyre there would have been enough grip there to pull the tracks under the tyre. But now I know for the future, that a shovel really is important to take 4wd'ing.

Anyways, the real purpose of this thread is to see if the straps are connected properly. Should I be using another shackle to conned the two straps, rather than running it through the loop?

**George130** · 6th February 2008, 05:45 PM

Don't use a shakle to join the 2 atraps. What you did is correct.

**Aaron** · 6th February 2008, 06:05 PM

Sweet, thanks.

And oh... Cucinadio you need not reply to this thread :P

**Blknight.aus** · 6th February 2008, 06:34 PM

urmm sorry no thats not right, its very close but its still not right.

from what it looks like youve got the main shackle on the rover attached to the vertical support of the bull bar... this is not rated for recovery work.

your recovering in reverse gear while it works its not really reccomended as reverse is typically the weakest gear in a manual box and your diffs are mainly setup for mass power going forwards not backwards..

In line with that the best recovery point (for being recovered or recovering) on a deefer is the pin on the reece hitch on the back. ITs strong and its got the advantage of being at the back of the vehicle if it all goes terribly wrong its going to take out somehting on the back of the vehicle which is usually only going to be the rear glass as opposed to the windshield and if it comes in lower than that it will hit the spare or a tail light not the radiator/cooler or a head light.

doubling a strap over like that can cause problems depending on how it wants to sit when its tightened up Ive seen guys do that with a 1m tree protector and then bend the chassis inwards while trying to pull out.

however right at the end of the day with recovey anything that works and doesnt kill maim or break equipment is on the cards.

**Aaron** · 6th February 2008, 06:42 PM

I was told it was ok to put hooks there. Bastards!

I dont have a rear tow bar/or recovery points. I want rear recovery points, but dont want a rear two bar.

I wasnt aware of the reverse gear things though, thanks.

The Equaliser strap is attached with two 3.25 shackles to the back of the Hilux.

Sounds as though im lucky it was bogged down deeper.

Thanks for your advice!

**rmp** · 6th February 2008, 06:47 PM

Not only that, the front diff is typically weaker than the rear. So that, along with reverse, and using it backwards is a good reason to avoid reverse-snatches.

**Blknight.aus** · 6th February 2008, 06:55 PM

having those hooks there will work and work well right up untill you have to pull at an angle going to the other side of the vehicle then they will twist out the plating if you get serious about your pull.

as youve got them its better than most toyo/ford/nissan drivers do when they just tie the strap around the barwork of the bull bar.

Have a look at the rearmost member of your vehicle and you'll see 6 captive nuts in the middle of the bar where the towbar bolts up. you can get an adaptor made up that sits in there and takes a reece hitch or you can mount a pintle hook type set up there and then use that. although I suspect it wont be quite as strong as the full bar setup it will be better than trying to use the "tie down" points that are on the rear.

If you look at the rear axle you will see 2 bolt holes on the end of a small bracked 1 on each end of the axle. If you ever have to flat tow or recover a ricer an equalising hitch off of both them back to the ricer will let you get your pull down low enough that you dont spud up the front of his front bumper.

**Panda** · 6th February 2008, 06:59 PM

I learnt from this post too, so thanks to all the input

Just out of curiosity, why is the front diff weaker than the rear? (And I apologise in advance if it's a stupid question!)

Originally Posted by rmp

Not only that, the front diff is typically weaker than the rear. So that, along with reverse, and using it backwards is a good reason to avoid reverse-snatches.

**cucinadio** · 6th February 2008, 07:02 PM

Originally Posted by Aaron

Got my Hilux stuck today in the front yard.

Not sure how to say this, there is no easy way to say it. They didn't work :P

Damn l bet you wish you had some of those

"Hubbatrax"

mate you left that wide open

cheers

**Blknight.aus** · 6th February 2008, 07:08 PM

thats more of a toymotor problem than a rover problem that said.

If you have a locker in the rear, a sailsbury in the rear uprated axles in the rear then its stronger becuase you have changed it to something stronger OR have the sailsbury.

the front axles are a mite weaker up front than down the back but thats just the nature of making a steering live front axle you can make it tougher but that usually means more weight and more expense.

the big killer is once the diff gets bedded in operating in its normal direction working it hard in reverse or shock loading it in reverse tends to do bad things to the crown and pinion it usually wont break then and there but it will put stress fractures in and then when you go hard in the normal direction or do another recovery/trailer push/something that takes a little more effort than backing out of the coles carpark it'll let go.

in the same vein the carrier pin for the center gear can also let go in exactly the same manner. and then you have large metal bits just meandering around in an area where there are large heavy bits of steel getting spun around by plenty of power and sometimes at quite the rate of knots and we all know the end result of that.

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