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Thread: Bottle jacking

  1. #11
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    Distinguished Colleagues,

    Thanks for all the additional information everyone - Harry - I will see you at the meeting tonight and discuss this further then.

    But my bottle jack has an approx. 3.5cm diameter circular ridged plate which is the point of contact with the underside of the axle. If all axles are circular in plan, why do bottle jacks come with flat plates? Is it too unstable to use unless an adapter plate (as Blknight.aus and Harry describe) isn't used?

    Dan
    2007 Defender 110
    2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
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    2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black

  2. #12
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    When I got the bottle jack for the D3 I had to have a couple of these made up to lock the jack into the chassis rail. Perhaps you need to do a similar thing.





    Please excuse the quality of the pics, taken with my phone.

  3. #13
    numpty's Avatar
    numpty is offline TopicToaster Silver Subscriber
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    Always used a bottle jack in the past, and haven't had any trouble with locating on the axle. Always use a wheel chock as well.

    That Defender jack is a PITA.
    Numpty

    Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
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  4. #14
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    Distinguished Colleagues,

    Thanks for all the additional information everyone - Harry - I will see you at the meeting tonight and discuss this further then.

    But my bottle jack has an approx. 3.5cm diameter circular ridged plate which is the point of contact with the underside of the axle. If all axles are circular in plan, why do bottle jacks come with flat plates? Is it too unstable to use unless an adapter plate (as Blknight.aus and Harry describe) isn't used?

    Dan
    If the top of the jack is centred on the axle, is vertical and the other wheel on the axle is chocked, there should be no problem. An adapter would add some more confidence - the simplest would be two beads of weld - but if done correctly there will be no side load on the jack to axle contact, and the ridges will very slightly indent the axle, helping to stop it moving anyway.

    Suggestion - for your own confidence, jack up a wheel until the tyre is about clear the ground (other wheel chocked) and try to knock the jack out with a length of wood or similar. Unless you have it very out of vertical, you will find it very difficult to move, as the weight of the vehicle and the friction of the contact will prevent any movement.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #15
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    I think the main point remember here is don't go under the car that is being jcked up unless you have security/axle stands under it. Jacking with bottle jacks, trolley jacks, Defender screw jacks and scissor jacks ALL have inherent risks. They can all be operated safely if you act safely. Chock the wheels, engage diff lock, level ground when possible and resist the urge to put any body part between the two and half tonnes masher and the ground.

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