Thread: HID Lights

I got an HID upgrade kit for the Freelander from eBay for $120. It only did the lowbeams but thats all you need.

Originally Posted by stirlsilver

The kits that you can buy off ebay are very very simple to install. They actually don't require any wiring since the ballasts connect directly into the 3 pin H4 connector. All you have to do is find somewhere to put the ballasts and you are done. Would save you $250 easily from what your electrician would charge. But then again if you really want hassle free I suppose you can always just fork out the $450 and leave it for someone else, that way if anything does go wrong you can go back to him (or her perhaps?).

I'm with Stirlsilver. I bought a bi-xenon kit ages ago for about $600 and intended to put them into the Prado. They sat on the shelf for about 2 years, and I eventually fitted them to the D2 about 3 or 4 months ago. Mine are relatively low kelvin (compared to some that are available) and they put out a very clean white light. I've since seen the same kit for much lower price (about $200 ). If you look up a bloke trading as "HID Technonlgy" - he has a good range, provides good advice and his prces are reasonable (he advertises on this site).

As for replacing /upgrading your original LR wiring loom - if you want to just upgrade your lights without going to HID, then this is the way to go. I haven't seen Drivesafe's kit, but what I've read about it sounds right on the money.

If you convert to bi-xenon HID (both high and low beam), then you should not need to upgrade your wiring for two reasons -
1. The HID globes only pull 35W each, whether on high or low beam.
2. HID kits (at least the one that I have) only use the original wiring as a trigger. A separate, fused power lead is included with the HID kit which supplies the power to the ballasts.

My opinion of the HID's - they're the best option out there if you don't mind spending the money. As others have said, they're techincally illegal when retro-fitted to most vehicles, but if you keep it sensible and don't overdo it on the kelvin rating of the kit you choose, it'll never be noticed. I have been running HID driving lights for years (Hella Predators on the work Prado and then the D2 and also have a set of converted Hella Rally 4000's that were on the Prado). With the D2, the original lights were so bad that I almost couldn't see when I dipped from hi beam (with Predators) to low beam. The bi-xenon HID conversion has well and truly fixed that problem. With proper adjustment, they are not annoying to oncoming traffic. Other than the first night after I fitted them (when I had not set them up propely), I have never been "flashed" by oncoming traffic. I have called up oncoming trucks on Ch 40 and asked them if the lights were bright or annoying, and have never had a bad response.

For the record. I love my HIDs. Love...love...love. Granted mine are spotties and can only be used on High beam. But...they're like driving around in the daytime. Not only are they brighter...the light is cleaner. It's like trying to read by downlights vs fluros. Much easier on the eyes.

Re-wiring standard globes with relays does make a lot of difference. Particularly when the car's getting a li'l old. As does alligning them properly. Could be worse. Old VWs ran 6V headlights. Candles would have been better.

Originally Posted by BMKal

I'm with Stirlsilver. I bought a bi-xenon kit ages ago for about $600 and intended to put them into the Prado. They sat on the shelf for about 2 years, and I eventually fitted them to the D2 about 3 or 4 months ago. Mine are relatively low kelvin (compared to some that are available) and they put out a very clean white light. I've since seen the same kit for much lower price (about $200 ). If you look up a bloke trading as "HID Technonlgy" - he has a good range, provides good advice and his prces are reasonable (he advertises on this site).

As for replacing /upgrading your original LR wiring loom - if you want to just upgrade your lights without going to HID, then this is the way to go. I haven't seen Drivesafe's kit, but what I've read about it sounds right on the money.

If you convert to bi-xenon HID (both high and low beam), then you should not need to upgrade your wiring for two reasons -
1. The HID globes only pull 35W each, whether on high or low beam.
2. HID kits (at least the one that I have) only use the original wiring as a trigger. A separate, fused power lead is included with the HID kit which supplies the power to the ballasts.

My opinion of the HID's - they're the best option out there if you don't mind spending the money. As others have said, they're techincally illegal when retro-fitted to most vehicles, but if you keep it sensible and don't overdo it on the kelvin rating of the kit you choose, it'll never be noticed. I have been running HID driving lights for years (Hella Predators on the work Prado and then the D2 and also have a set of converted Hella Rally 4000's that were on the Prado). With the D2, the original lights were so bad that I almost couldn't see when I dipped from hi beam (with Predators) to low beam. The bi-xenon HID conversion has well and truly fixed that problem. With proper adjustment, they are not annoying to oncoming traffic. Other than the first night after I fitted them (when I had not set them up propely), I have never been "flashed" by oncoming traffic. I have called up oncoming trucks on Ch 40 and asked them if the lights were bright or annoying, and have never had a bad response.

Hi, I noticed your disco bullbar looks like a D2A with the fog lights fitted. Is this the case? Will a D2A bullbar (TJM or AR bolt straight on to a D2 as I would like to retain fog lights, and I think it looks better with them in the bar. I am also looking to upgrade my standard D2 headlights or globes. A recent trip west proved they are just not up to scratch, particularly low beam!
Thanks, Mick

Originally Posted by stirlsilver

As I mentioned in my previous post white is 43-4500 kelvin. That's good to know though!

5000-6000k actually. 4300 is still in the yellow bandwidth. Daylight is 5000K.
If your going to use bi-xenon you need to change the glass diffuser beams to a freeform reflector (crystal look type). Its the scattering at the glass that causes the issue with glare as the glass is far from optically perfect when it comes to a refractive perspective.
I got two sets of E Certified Wipac 7" H4 units off ebay for the RRC at about $100 a set but that was when the $ was rubbish. Have a set spare as i cant find them here.
I have Philips genuine HID H7 conversion in the D2a and its fantastic. Havent had a single complaint yet. Followed a workmate down the highway to work early one morning. He commented on how bright they were but said they had less glare than normal headlights.
If your not prepared to change these when you do HID, you really should just do a harness upgrade as it isnt nice looking at good light thru crappy lenses when your coming the other way.
There are numerous HID options out there now and alot are absolute rubbish.

Cheers

Andrew

A couple of comments.

Lovemyrangie is correct about the problem with low beam being light scattered from the glass - this is why wipers and washers for the lights are mandatory for high output low beams (not just HID in theory - but nothing else is that bright). Even if no problem when clean, one patch of locusts and you have a problem.

Before going to Castle Hill a couple of weeks ago in the 2a, I replaced the bulbs in the headlights, and carefully aimed them. They already had had a relay fitted. Not only did I find that the lights were more than adequate driving the last stretch from Mudgee through hoppy country after dark (stopped to eat in Mudgee and let the sun set rather than drive into it!), but I found that the high beam gave a light off large reflecting signs that was so bright as to be painful (particularly a set of warning and destination signs just west of Mudgee) - how do those with HID high beams find this? And this was with standard 45/50 BPF bulbs in standard Lucas 700 lights - not even QH.

John