Thread: Let the carnage begin!

Just to be daft lets follow the laws of deminishing returns here....

your putting in more work to recover the gear that you hired in to make the job easier and arent making much progress. Bigger gear is harder to recover..

why dont you go back to a shovel and wheelbarrow you'll spend less time recovering it and more time shifting dirt.....

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

Bogged tractors - Chain a timber pole slightly longer than the diameter of the tyre to each rear wheel, then reverse the tractor out. I [lawfully] pinched two horse jumping timber poles and drilled out a hole with a spade bit to pass the chain through. Worked like magic when I sank the old ferguson on the nature strip, and I got the idea off Youtube. For everything else, sheets of weldmesh (with about 30mm squares) works perfectly.

I just don't take the tractor out when it's wet

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

Bogged tractors - Chain a timber pole slightly longer than the diameter of the tyre to each rear wheel, then reverse the tractor out. I [lawfully] pinched two horse jumping timber poles and drilled out a hole with a spade bit to pass the chain through. Worked like magic when I sank the old ferguson on the nature strip, and I got the idea off Youtube. For everything else, sheets of weldmesh (with about 30mm squares) works perfectly.

I just don't take the tractor out when it's wet


(nice little tip though, Joel)

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Just to be daft lets follow the laws of deminishing returns here....

your putting in more work to recover the gear that you hired in to make the job easier and arent making much progress. Bigger gear is harder to recover..

why dont you go back to a shovel and wheelbarrow you'll spend less time recovering it and more time shifting dirt.....

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Just to be daft lets follow the laws of deminishing returns here....

your putting in more work to recover the gear that you hired in to make the job easier and arent making much progress. Bigger gear is harder to recover..

why dont you go back to a shovel and wheelbarrow you'll spend less time recovering it and more time shifting dirt.....

Must be a government project.

Bigger gear is to dig deeper.

Been told I need to rin drainage trenches 5-6 feet deep across the block and bacl fill with agg pipe and gravel. Scarey thing is I'm half way up a hill.

Supposedly this will allow the water to drain out more evenly and save the block before I have to register the house.

Hi Edd
If it makes you feel any better,I bogged my grader today!!!!
When you finally get to do those French drains,bluemetal is what you need,unless the gravel is washed as the clay in it will render the job a waste of time.
Google Geo-Fabric,you should be lining the drains with it too.Helps stop them silting up over time.
Goodluck
Andrew

given that your working in slop, if you try to trench it like it is your going to be in a world of poo...

Im assuming that they're talking about running diagonal drainage ditches across the slope to let the water seep out of the soil... Its a good plan but it can be dangerous if your topcrust cant even support a bobcat digging out with a backhoe (which would be my implement of choice in your situation if it gets bogged dont dig) with a skinny bucket or better yet a ground chain (think oversized ditch witch) cut your self a few feet (1-2 meters just enough to get the roll of tube laying flat at the bottom) of your trench to depth then as the machine works its way back you lay in some of your bluemetal for a base put in the start of the coil of your tube and cover it a bit with more bluemetal you follow the machine back and use the soil it digs up to cover over the bluemetaling and tube.

Not a brilliant description but it should give you the idea..

IF you dig out the whole trench in one hit and you get a slip............