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Thread: Teach me to drive a Series 3 diesel please

  1. #1
    emus Guest

    Teach me to drive a Series 3 diesel please

    Hi all, I've just bought an S3 diesel traytop in SA, which has had a "$4500 mechanical going over including a $1300 injector overhaul(plus labor)"
    Haven't driven a Landy since army days in S1's,and have forgotten how

    Can one shift from high to low range up and down whilst moving? and if so , up to what speed?
    Is 4wd only operable in low range? and how do you engage it? Can it be engaged on the move?The stubby little spring loaded lever doesn't seem to give any feel, "clunk" or signal that it's engaged or not engaged in 4wd when pushed up and down when stationary.Do you have to synchronise it with clutch movement? How can you tell whether it's currently engaged or disengaged? I seem to remember there was an "engaged" warning light on the dashboard in S1's, perhaps I'm wrong.

    Can it be driven for long periods in low range 4wd on dirt? Up to what speed?
    What is the approximate top speed of the diesel in high? Can top speed be continued for prolonged periods with the diesel safely?

    Do these things overheat readily? The motor's still tight one this one, only about 50 kms since full overhaul, and shows just above the middle of the heat range on the dial at times.

    The local country diesel engineer who did up the motor delivered it back to the owner ,with it light grey smoking quite heavily on idle. The engineer explained that the reconditioned injector pump needed a special Land Rover factory tool to fine tune the pump, and he didn't have one. Is this likely to be correct? And if so , does anyone know someone with the tool in Adelaide able correct this for less than an arm and a leg (the ute cost me less than his reconditioning bill)

    The speedo doesn"t work,.......are speedo cables available?
    I've read with interest in this Forum re Fish'n'chip shop canola oil being used in diesels,.........might this be possible in mine? Does it need to be thinned down with distillate? On what ratio?
    If anyone has an old handbook or workshop manual for sale ,I'd be interested

    Thanks very much for your patience , tolerance and assistance with this doddery old "new" chum
    Cheers Pete 0413 133233
    Last edited by emus; 23rd July 2008 at 11:17 AM. Reason: post looked a bit congested

  2. #2
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    I can answer some questions for you.

    Speedo cables are easily available, bit check that it just hasn't come loose at the back of the speedo. you don't even need to open up the dash if you don't want to, you can push the cable from the engine bay against the firewall.

    Four wheel drive is engaged by pushing down the yellow lever, pull the red one back for low range (yellow one should pop up) and the red one back forward to go back to 2wd.

    I don't know about speed per say, but i've driven my series 3 in padocks and around a farm in 4wd up to probably 60 with no prblems. it's when there is too much grip and you are turning corners that you will have problems.

    engaging 4wd can be dne at a slow speed, but is best at a stop, and low range is a stop as well essentially. it can be done, but it's not worth the effort in my opinion. Others may disagree.

    No 4wd engaged signals at all, but you will usually hear a difference in the gearbox.
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  3. #3
    emus Guest
    Thanks heaps Phoenix,.......
    Sorry, but I'm a bit thick,............you say "push down the yellow lever for 4wd", but then you say"pull the red one back for low range(yellow one should pop up)"

    Does this mean that any time you move the red range lever, the yellow 4wd lever goes up? So then should one engage the range first, then press the yellow 4wd knob down to engage 4wd? I guess the motor should be running at the time ,and should one use the clutch to do these range/4wd changes?
    And can 4wd be used in high range?,........I assume it must, as you say you do 60 kph in 4wd, and I don't think low range will go that fast,will it?

    And when you say "and the red one back forward", do you mean......."and the red one forward"?

    Thanks for the tip about the 4wd gearbox noise,........if I can't hear that, I'll assume that the 4wd function doesn't work.

    Can anyone else please help about the injectors tool or the books?

    Thanks again , Pete

  4. #4
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    low range always has 4wd so to get low range 4wd just pull the lever back.

    You should be able to engage high range 4wd at any speed as long as all teh wheels are turning at the same speed.

    I think from memory you need to stop to go into low range

    top speed would be about 100kmh

    cheers
    Pete

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by emus View Post
    Hi all, I've just bought an S3 diesel traytop in SA, which has had a "$4500 mechanical going over including a $1300 injector overhaul(plus labor)"
    Haven't driven a Landy since army days in S1's,and have forgotten how

    Can one shift from high to low range up and down whilst moving? and if so , up to what speed?
    Is 4wd only operable in low range? and how do you engage it? Can it be engaged on the move?The stubby little spring loaded lever doesn't seem to give any feel, "clunk" or signal that it's engaged or not engaged in 4wd when pushed up and down when stationary.Do you have to synchronise it with clutch movement? How can you tell whether it's currently engaged or disengaged? I seem to remember there was an "engaged" warning light on the dashboard in S1's, perhaps I'm wrong.

    Can it be driven for long periods in low range 4wd on dirt? Up to what speed?
    What is the approximate top speed of the diesel in high? Can top speed be continued for prolonged periods with the diesel safely?

    Do these things overheat readily? The motor's still tight one this one, only about 50 kms since full overhaul, and shows just above the middle of the heat range on the dial at times.

    The local country diesel engineer who did up the motor delivered it back to the owner ,with it light grey smoking quite heavily on idle. The engineer explained that the reconditioned injector pump needed a special Land Rover factory tool to fine tune the pump, and he didn't have one. Is this likely to be correct? And if so , does anyone know someone with the tool in Adelaide able correct this for less than an arm and a leg (the Ute cost me less than his reconditioning bill)

    The speedo doesn"t work,.......are speedo cables available?
    I've read with interest in this Forum re Fishnchip shop canola oil being used in diesels,.........might this be possible in mine? Does it need to be thinned down with distillate? On what ratio?
    If anyone has an old handbook or workshop manual for sale ,I'd be interested

    Thanks very much for your patience , tolerance and assistance with this doddery old "new" chum
    Cheers Pete 0413 133233
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------As Richard said in his post the yellow leaver is high 4 wheel drive, which means you can travel at road speed with all wheels powered and can be selected while on the move.
    To select low range four wheel drive on the move is not really advised unless you are very confident at double clutching the same applies for changing from low ratio back high ratio.
    As for driving a diesel treat it as a petrol but if the motor is allowed to labour under load the operaing temp will increase and can the motor can boil if a lower gear is not selected.
    I have allways found that a diesel motor with clean fuel and clean air very seldom gives any problems and other than these two filter and a regular oil change they are trouble free.

    Hodgo

  6. #6
    emus Guest
    Thanks guys, I think I've got the levers/knobs sorted now,........please confirm if the following is correct............................

    1.Red knob back is low range,which AUTOMATICALLY engages 4wd,regardless of the yellow knob position

    2.Red knob forward is high range, and to also have 4wd in high range,the yellow knob must be pressed down(preferably whilst stationary with motor running using clutch)

    3.Driving quietly along in low range 4wd, red knob may be pushed forward to engage high range,at which time yellow knob will pop up disengaging 4wd

    Have I got it right?

    Thanks Pete

  7. #7
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    nearly, except that.

    2. you can engage 4wd (pressing down the yellow knob) when moving as long as you aren't getting wheel spin

    3. better to stop before changing from low to high range or vice versa

    cheers
    Pete

  8. #8
    emus Guest
    Thanks Pete, so the only dangerous move is changing up or down to high or low range whilst on the move

    I appreciate both those range changes can probably be done by expert double declutching with exactly the right revs as in a crash box non-synchromesh truck etc . Correct?

    Thanks again, Pete

  9. #9
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    correct as you say with practice it can be done!

    Pete

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    One additional thing about four wheel drive. If it has free wheel hubs at the front, do not engage four wheel drive on the move unless the hubs are engaged, otherwise it will make a horrible noise, and may damage the dog in the transfer case. Of course, if the hubs are not engaged, only the rear wheels will drive, even if you are in four wheel drive.

    Subject to this proviso, high range four wheel drive can be engaged by pressing the yellow knob at any speed, but do not do it when the rear wheels are slipping. Low range should only be engaged when stopped except after a lot of experience, and when the red knob is pulled back, the yellow knob should pop up, but front drive is still engaged until the red knob is moved forward again. If low range is selected while in two wheel drive, four wheel drive is engaged, even though the yellow knob is up. Avoid using four wheel drive on hard surfaces - it will scrub the tyres, cause feedback through the steering, and may damage the drive train.

    The engine is governed, and can be driven up to the governed speed in any gear, although you will need ear muffs and keep an eye on the temperature gauge - this engine does not like overheating. It is unlikely you will reach governed maximum rpm in top on the road, and it should do around 100+kph on a level road without a headwind, but will be a lot happier at 80-90 - and will return better fuel economy.

    The tool referred to is the injection timing tool - you will need to find a mechanic who does or has done work on these engines. Personally, I would suspect the smoke is from leaking valve stem seals (not a big job), but I could be wrong. I suggest getting a competent diesel mechanic who is NOT the one who overhauled it to have a look at it.

    As mentioned, speedo cables are readily available, but may not be the problem. Note that a possible problem is that the speedo drive gear on the output shaft of the transfer case is held only by being pinched by the nut holding the output flange on, and if this is even slightly loose, the drive gear may be simply not turning, although usually this gives erratic readings rather than none. (disconnect the front of the rear prop shaft and check tightness).

    As for use of vegetable oil, yes, this engine is suitable, but I suggest doing a bit of reading, perhaps starting with http://www.aulro.com/afvb/bio-fuels/.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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