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Thread: Tuning a carbie - Gas Analyser

  1. #1
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    Tuning a carbie - Gas Analyser

    I've got a question or two on tuning a carbie.

    Yesterday I did a bit of engine work on my daughters Subie 4x4 1800 with a carbie. Did the plugs, aircleaner, timing etc but got stumped by adjusting the carbie.

    The manual gives basic settings for the idle screw and the mixture screw, but warns it should be checked on a gas analyser to set it properly.

    It seems to be running rich, with a sooty tail pipe (plugs weren't as bad as I thought they were going to be) and poorish fuel consumption, but I wasn't game to lean it off in case I end up with burnt valves.

    I also need to adjust the carbie on my Series I SWB 2.0L soon, so my questions are:
    - Can you do a proper job tuning up a carbie by setting the screws to the service book suggested number of turns?
    - If an exhaust gas analyser IS required, are they expensive? Can you get a "home mechanics" version?

    ATM I am thinking of just driving to an AutoTune or whatever and getting them to adjust it for me.

    Thanks
    David

  2. #2
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    providing you have the right version of the book you dont need it...

    it will give you a basic setup to get the thing started and running and then it will tell you how to go about adjusting it while its running to get it all right....

    then you can do a fine tune with the analyser

    If youve got it running it usually only costs $30 or so to swing it past a place with an analyser and get the fine tune done.
    Dave

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  3. #3
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    The simple answer is no,
    on a new car yes
    but as the carbies get older the engine gets abit tired then the factory settings are just a starting point, to get the car ruining and idling so you can properly tune it.

    You used to be able to get a thingy me bob that allowed you to see in the custombion chamber while the car was ruining that worked well you could set the mixture quite well

    But nothing beats a gas analyser, I managed to pick up an old vane 2 gas one, have set the rangie up with this then checked the AFR with a Snap on MT25000 and it was spot on

    T

  4. #4
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    The series would send the modern gas analyser Off the scale!
    These were dirty engines as far as CO emissions were concerned, and if the engine is worn in any one of 3 areas,(Distributor, cam timing, compression) then you'll have no hope of satisfying the gas anyliser. Fuel mixtures at idle are easy to adjust, but if the carb has problems with the main or power circuits, then these will need attention also.

    However, The old SU was a fantastic bit of gear, hardly any moving parts, no throttle pump or power valve, simplicity in action

    The Suby will need a valve adjustment (If it is a OHV EA81 engine) to ensure proper running, and if it is a L series with the EA82 OHC cambelt driven engine, these have a more complex carb etc that could have vacuum leaks etc which will cause poor adjustability and running.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    also.......if you were expecting to see a nice grey tailpipe like the good ol days........
    you can pretty much forget it.......unleaded will leave the tailpipe black......



    all you need to set up a carby......is a vacuum guage......
    then you tune the carby till you get maximum manifold vacuum at idle......

    you want your engine to run at its best........
    to set it via an exhaust gas analyser is pretty much only for passing an emissions test.....

    running an engine a touch richer is always better for the engine.......
    and that small amount of fuel charge that gets drawn into the combustion chamber
    on each stroke.....is pretty much all that cools down the combustion chamber......

    and also part of the reason why running an engine leaner can cause overheating.......which leads to detonation...........


    just make sure you dont have black smoke coming out the exhaust.....

  6. #6
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    OK - so let's forget the analyser then!

    Justin - It is an EA82 so no valve adjustments and lots of spaghetti attached to the carbie.

    Tony - I remember them I think, you screwed them in in place of the spark plug or something.

    I am not so worried about passing an emissions test, more just wanting to know how to get it to the leanest reasonable mixture, without being too lean of course.

    So should I be going out and getting myself a vacuum gauge? I can see how this might be used at idle, but how do you fine tune the main mixture screw at running revs (say 3000RPM), or is this not critical?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by spudboy View Post
    OK - so let's forget the analyser then!

    Justin - It is an EA82 so no valve adjustments and lots of spaghetti attached to the carbie.

    Tony - I remember them I think, you screwed them in in place of the spark plug or something.

    I am not so worried about passing an emissions test, more just wanting to know how to get it to the leanest reasonable mixture, without being too lean of course.

    So should I be going out and getting myself a vacuum gauge? I can see how this might be used at idle, but how do you fine tune the main mixture screw at running revs (say 3000RPM), or is this not critical?
    In the suby,Main running mixtures are set with the jet size. Some older carbs had adjustable main jets, and all SU type carbs are adjustable in this department by changing needle profiles, and a small amount of needle height adjustment is possible until it affects the idle mix.


    The EA82 was a pain in the carb department with all the vac hoses etc, even the auto choke model was overly complex

    If it has serious fuel economy issues, check the wear in the throttle shaft, it'll cause a lot of fuel to be drawn in on the overrun, causing enrichment on downhill and coasting = more fuel consumption.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK View Post
    all you need to set up a carby......is a vacuum guage......
    then you tune the carby till you get maximum manifold vacuum at idle......
    Thanks for that info - didn't know about that. I've just done a lot of reading on this on the internet and have learnt a lot. Better get myself a vacuum gauge.......

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by spudboy View Post
    Thanks for that info - didn't know about that. I've just done a lot of reading on this on the internet and have learnt a lot. Better get myself a vacuum gauge.......
    A vacuum gauge is the best tuning tool you can own, it will diagnose a myriad of symptoms from sticking valves to late ignition timing.
    First up you need to check and adjust ign. timing, points and plugs, then connect vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum, below the carb throttle, before running engine adjust mixture screw to factory specs, usually about 1 1/2 turns out from full in, start engine adjust idle speed to specs, note the vacuum reading, should be around 18/20 (inches of mercury). Adjust mixture screw in and note engine idle and vacuum till it runs rough, do the same screwing out, by ear listen to the engine and adjust in or out till you achieve a smooth running engine and highest vacuum reading, hope this helps, Regards Frank.

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