Please dont flame me too much for this idea BUT... why would this not work
machine a box 300mm long 200mm wide and 150mm thick (I mean properly machined not hammered and welded and hacksawed in the backyard) with two shafts in bearings about 150mm apart with a triplex chain. The box is bolted to the axle stubb and the alxe fit to the top shaft so the drive is offset 150mm down to where you attach the wheel. You now have a portal axle for a reasonable cost even when including proper machining.
I can see fitting the disks a problem but obviously not to many others or I would not be entertaining the idea.
anyone care to comment?
Chain driven portal... I guess it would be a trade off between lash and chain wear?
Got a mate who has 6x6ed an old rangie and has used chain drive from 2nd to 3rd diff?
Anythings possible - but surely the hassle of machining for good chain tolerances could be spent making a gear housing and gear set a la "normal" portals?
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Yeah, I think the same, there chain as it wears could become a problem... But then again the rover transmissions have that much play in them already that it probably won't make it much worse.
If you were considring doing this with bearings and what not, you might as well use 3 spur gears or helical gears to make it more durable (I was a little bored):
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Stirling
why bother with that...
take a planetry gear set retain the anulus and planetry carrier.
put the wheel on the anulus and then drive the anulus from one planetry gear as opposed from the carrier. Instant portal with substantial reduction and less moving parts allowing you to fit those extra huge "why does that unimog I parked next to have licorice strip tyres?" rubbers you never knew you always wanted without reducing your diffs innards to swarf of increasing the parts count of your halfshaft.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I think I would be looking at the maximum allowable torque loads for chains before getting two far with the design. I suspect you would be looking at at least a four row chain, and possibly wider, which is likely to find your tyre centreline moving well out from the swivel. Also, you need to have some means of tensioning the chain, suggesting an idler. Whole thing is beginning to get complicated - I think I prefer Dave's plan. But still be a lot of work.
And at the risk of again usurping Ron's job, that is hare-brained, not hair-brain. The term comes from the erratic behaviour of the animal, nothing to do with the stuff on your head.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
In the fifties and sixties there was a tandem drive conversion for single axle drive trucks using v-belts from the driven axle to the rear additional axle. Had some limited popularity with tipper operators. Most likely on the basis of price, being a cheaper way of increasing carrying capacity of an existing lighter duty truck than buying a tandem drive truck.
Chain drives were common in veteran, cars and on trucks right through the thirties.
Last edited by Bigbjorn; 6th September 2008 at 07:40 AM. Reason: Correcting typos, beat you to it, Ron.
URSUSMAJOR
I have had similar setups on machines such as coring machine and scarifier.
They are light weight and slow moving and they still wear out tripple chains and sprockets regularly.
I dont think it would take any amount of Hp with any real success.
The tripple gears would work well and wouldnt be that expensive, I just had 3 gears and a carrier made up for a planetary set in a bobcat trencher which cost $320, but I did have the original bits of the old ones for him to copy.
I did think of helical gears at first but figured having 3 in a row with reasonable teeth and outer diameter the size would be to big, but I now think it would be ok given that a chain is not strong enough. I even thought a wide timing belt would be ok. I have not got my head around the "annulus and planetary carrier" idea yet.
The biggest problem would be alignment and vibration. Strength is easy, just use something tougher and harder than mild steel.
I was thinking of attaching a bolt on portal device to my weekend tyres permanently as I got some 35 baja claws.
when you look at a simple plantery gear your looking at 3 layers of gears with a total of usually 5 gears
1 gear right in the middle thats the sun gear, one that we're not using in this example
3 gears attached to some kind of drive plate or ring these are your planetries and are mounted on the planetry carrier
a final gear with the teeth facing inwards this is the anulus.
we dont need the sun gear in this application as it shares the same center of rotation as all the other gears except the planetry gears it will also when driven in the manner we are looking at provide a reverse drive so lets loose that.
the anulus is the big gear on the outside and it re-attaches to the centerline of the entire unit and since its the driven member thats what we want, as its reduction driven in all circumstnaces that we can come up with in the configuration we're using AND it will rotate in the same direction as the driving gear which means you dont have to worry about extra idler gears.
what we then do is drive a single planetry gear and put it up at the top most position of the setup which provides us with the lift over the centerline of the anulus gear .
if your still having trouble with the idea draw a big circle then draw a line vertically acorss the diameter of the circle. now on that line pick a point somewhere more than halfway out along the radius of the diameter heading towards 12 oclock and then use that as the center point for another circle that contacts the circumferance of the first circle at 12 oclock.
the outside circle is the anulus and the smaller the planetry.
by my rough guesstomathics I reckon i can draw you a setup that should provice about a 3:1 reduction at the axle and give you about 4 inches of lift but it wont run a standard rover rim youd have to look at something like a 20 inch rim to make it fit but it woud be a direct bolt on item that would replace the stub axle and drive flange but would retain your standard half shaft.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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