Thread: Queensland Road worthy check list

My experience here is it is very open to interpretation. In one of my roadworthy eposodes i took the car to two different people to get a roadworthy. The lists of what needed doing had no common items at all. Not one item was on the others list. So i just chose the one i liked best, did the work and took it back to them.

Not much help for you i'm afraid. It is quite annoying that they won't accepted the yearly inspection certificate from other states. One would have thought the standard would have been similar.

I saw a PDF checklist when doing a google search for other Queensland Transport docs. I can't find it in a search now of course.
It was a tick checklist that looked and read as though it is what the mechanic would use during their inspection. I thought I saved it at the time but can't find it.

So the info is out there.

If it is coming from a state that has yearly checks then it should be fine. Certainly wouldn't be anything to worry about anyway.

One of the reasons that a checklist is not readily available is that it will certainly depend on the date of the vehicle, as different requirements were introduced at different times.

John

I had the dunga done when I bought it and it was still registerd in NSW (handed the plates back to the previous owner prior to getting it regoed in QLD). My local K-Mart tyre and auto did the safety cert and they wern't too hard on me (I have had a few Rangies done by them).

What I get annoyed about is when they start to get anal and over-the-top with some things. Oil leaks are common thing they pick on but a good dose of degreaser and a gerni fix that but many won't pick you up on it if it's a slight drip. I've had one where the RHS guard wasn't secured at the bottom of the guard (it was zip-tied by the previous owner), would have fixed it anyway but a bit silly if ypou ask me.

Trav

There is a set capped price for safety certificates in QLD.
There are a set amount of things that need to be checked.
They are on a standard form with tick boxes, and guidelines around that.

Your best bet is to have it as good as you can get it and take it to a decent mechanic (another challenge) for the inspection.
They will advise you (with the initial copy of the safety cert) of anything not up to scratch.
You will have 30 days to rectify any fault.
They also can't charge you for bringing it back the 2nd time.

Thanks for the responses,

Perhaps the reason I dont seem to be able to get a straight answer is that there isnt one!?

I bought a disco in Brisbane the not long ago from a dealer which allegedly had a rwc at the point of sale, not familiar with the standards in QLD I noticed it only has one mud guard, a stone chip low down the windscreen, a little oil seepage and a tyre tread that was down on the markers. In general conversation I have heard these may well fail a safety test.

Everywhere I ask the assumption seems to be that the tester will be rewarded with the work to fix, bordering on the disapointed when I explain that I know how to read a workshop manual and hold a spanner. Recently was quoted $900 to change the fuel pump on the disco 1 (V8i petrol 1995) which I did myself in 15 minutes? The same garage does RWCs!!

The out of state land is inside the 12 month test from NT but the engine blew, so want to get it shipped down and learn quickly how to rebuild a V8.

But at the end of the day I agree I can just take in a vehicle to a station have it tested and then work on anything that fails. What I find exasperating is that with cars of this age I cant get any idea of the standards expected. I cant see that the standards change so much, except for emissions tests, doesn't matter how old your brakes are they still have to stop the car within a certain time.


But If anyone can shed anymore light I would be truly grateful.

Cheers all,

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave

Thanks for the responses,

Perhaps the reason I dont seem to be able to get a straight answer is that there isnt one!?

I bought a disco in Brisbane the not long ago from a dealer which allegedly had a rwc at the point of sale, not familiar with the standards in QLD I noticed it only has one mud guard, a stone chip low down the windscreen, a little oil seepage and a tyre tread that was down on the markers. In general conversation I have heard these may well fail a safety test.

Everywhere I ask the assumption seems to be that the tester will be rewarded with the work to fix, bordering on the disapointed when I explain that I know how to read a workshop manual and hold a spanner. Recently was quoted $900 to change the fuel pump on the disco 1 (V8i petrol 1995) which I did myself in 15 minutes? The same garage does RWCs!!

The out of state land is inside the 12 month test from NT but the engine blew, so want to get it shipped down and learn quickly how to rebuild a V8.

But at the end of the day I agree I can just take in a vehicle to a station have it tested and then work on anything that fails. What I find exasperating is that with cars of this age I cant get any idea of the standards expected. I cant see that the standards change so much, except for emissions tests, doesn't matter how old your brakes are they still have to stop the car within a certain time.


But If anyone can shed anymore light I would be truly grateful.

Cheers all,

Dave

If you come across a vehicle for sale with a Safety Certificate and there are clearly some items on the vehicle thast are not right, then take a note of the certificate number and the inspectors licence number and name, if you can read his signature. QT takes a dim view of "tame" inspectors. Dealers are the most likely to have a tame inspector who gets a present for blind signing certificates. Report to a QT office with the details. They really love having deep and meaningfuls with these guys.

G'day Dave

I just got my RWC/Safety Cert for the Range Rover this afternoon, cost was $66.00 standard fee, I had to supply a current Gas Certificate, as it is duel fuel. the following items are on my copy of the Safety Certificate.

1-Identification
2-Modifications (if modified Blue plate affixed)
3-Seats & Restraints
4-Lights and Electrical components, (wipers washers,horn, driving lights high beam only)
5-Windscreen & Windows (no chips, no loose windows)
6-Body & Chassis (mine put on hoist and thorough check, look for oil leaks from under)
7-Steering & Suspension (done on hoist)
8-Tyres & wheels (done on hoist)
9-Brake Components " " " " "
10-Engine & driveline (done on hoist)
11-Exhaust Emissions (checked with engine running no smoke/fumes,quiet
12-Road Test (Optional I am told) tester knows I would not present a sub-standard vehicle)
13-Service Brake Test
14-Hand Brake Test

If your vehicle is neat clean and well presented it goes a long way towards the tester's attitude my tester has a very good reputation for being good & fair but has his little quirks, seat belt buckles, windscreen chips, RUST,brakes

hope that is of help

cheers