RivNuts - Brilliant

Sorry, I was a bit too vague...

I have spun a few rivnuts when dismantling Series 3s. They of course then are impossible to remove without butchering, and you can't fit new ones into the stretched holes. I destroyed a perfectly good bulkhead whilst trying to take off the lower dash unit. I have had my fill of Series 3s for this reason. And I hate rivnuts.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4, 68 2B FC pet6.

the series isnt supposed to have rivnuts its ment to have speednuts.


the best thing about the speed nut is if it spins in its caseing it will fall out if pried hard enough or if it twists when halfway out a quick slap with a hammer punches the nut out of the holder and then it pulls out.

visit your nearest aircraft supply warehouse - cad plated rivnuts, bolts etc are the dog's danglies when it comes to not causing corrosion of either itself or the aluminium panel... but it is cadmium, which is very toxic... somewhere on here there is a table running around of bi-metal galvanic potentials (what metals match well and what don't). Stainless and aluminium (contrary to popular opion) are NOT a good match - the aluminium disappears, but the stainless is fine! cad palted nuts, bolts, washers and rivnuts are cheaper than stainless too at my local place "the metric men"

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Originally Posted by spudboy

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Am sure they have been around for ages...... and I am just not up to speed with these things :)

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I am not sure how old they are - but I first came across them used to install the winch on my Series 1 - I saw them on it in 1962, but the winch would have been installed in 1956, so that makes them at least fifty years old.

According to Wikipedia, they date to the 1930s.

John

I never realised they have been around so long.

Can someone please confirm, as stated above, that Stainless Steel and Aluminium is a no-no. :o. If so I've got some attachments to remove:(

I went for Stainless rivnuts as I thought the aluminium ones were a bit soft and risked stripping the thread.

the stainless is ok.... its just when you put it with aluminium...

there'll be no no aluminium left after a while.

As Dave says. If you use stainless with aluminium and its alloys, you should insulate the two. If you visit a marine chandler, they should be able to sell you a variety of insulating washers and sleeves that are used when bolting stainless fittings to aluminium masts etc. If you live in a very arid area, then the problem is not too bad, but then there would be little reason to use stainless bolts, would there?

John

Thanks guys, I had known of the dissimilar metals issue and had always used alloy, although someone told me you can use stainless too, which I did. (I am only a few kms from the coast:o). Can't belive everything you hear!:mad:

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Originally Posted by Sleepy

Thanks guys, I had known of the dissimilar metals issue and had always used alloy, although someone told me you can use stainless too, which I did. (I am only a few kms from the coast:o). Can't belive everything you hear!:mad:

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You can use galvanised bolts - which is why Landrovers are put together with galvanised bolts - not that Landrover have been very good about keeping dissimilar metals apart, usually relying only on a thin coat of paint to separate them, for example in the doorframes.

John

Thanks John, I have just been reading about galvanic corrosion and the galvanic table.

http://www.auf.asn.au/scratchbuilder/galvanic_table.html

Hence zinc and al being closer together on the table means less cathodic potential ..... (sounds like I know what I'm talking about:D)