Thread: Automatic gearbox for a series 3 shortwheel base

No "complete drop-in" options available.

The 200Tdi discovery ZF Auto would be the easiest to fit, but it never came to Australia. You would eaither have to swap to an LT230 T-case or find a (rare) adapter to mate the ZF to your t-case. The ZF from a 300Tdi disco would be next best, but more work to mate up to the engine.


Either way you would need to modify the tunnel, floor, firewall - and unless you want to move the engine forward, also - gearbox crossmember and propshafts.

Hmmm, all this talk of tdi's and auto etc in a series going on at the moment.

How would a disco 300Tdi +auto and transfer fit? is the 300tdi a bolt up like the 200?

Maybe a full V8, auto and transfer would be cheaper to get hold of then spend the leftover on a gas conversion.

not that any of this helps the original question.

Originally Posted by nosliwedaw

Hmmm, all this talk of tdi's and auto etc in a series going on at the moment.

How would a disco 300Tdi +auto and transfer fit? is the 300tdi a bolt up like the 200?

Maybe a full V8, auto and transfer would be cheaper to get hold of then spend the leftover on a gas conversion.

not that any of this helps the original question.

OOORRR, retrofit series body work to a Disco or RRC roller ??

The prob with a ZF and LT230 is that Xmembers get in the way, you need to drop the rear end lower than the chassis and the combination will probably just about bolt directly the to the rear diff without a tailshaft unless you move it all way forward and lose the S3 fascia for a Stage 1/ County/ Defender one and even then you need to cut and move the front Xmember that the steering relay is bolted into.

Originally Posted by nosliwedaw

Hmmm, all this talk of tdi's and auto etc in a series going on at the moment.

How would a disco 300Tdi +auto and transfer fit? is the 300tdi a bolt up like the 200?

Maybe a full V8, auto and transfer would be cheaper to get hold of then spend the leftover on a gas conversion.

not that any of this helps the original question.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

The prob with a ZF and LT230 is that Xmembers get in the way, you need to drop the rear end lower than the chassis and the combination will probably just about bolt directly the to the rear diff without a tailshaft unless you move it all way forward and lose the S3 fascia for a Stage 1/ County/ Defender one and even then you need to cut and move the front Xmember that the steering relay is bolted into.

Yes but surely you can shift the engine forward instead?

I know the 2.25/LT77/Series combo (using the ashcroft adaptor) is 4" longer than the original setup.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Yes but surely you can shift the engine forward instead?

I know the 2.25/LT77/Series combo (using the ashcroft adaptor) is 4" longer than the original setup.

I was just looking through some of my pics and you may be correct there. I thought I had the motor forward, but it was still behind the Xmember and I was never sure if the radiator would fit - it was scrapped for a new build. That Xmember is what the fascia sits on.




This is where the LT95 sat at the rear, so the ZF/LT230 would sit 20mm rearward and then adjust that measurement by whatever you move the engine forward by. Ignore the spring over, but this pic is at 88" and you can see the Xmember forces the transmission down, though if its all moved forward it might fix that problem. The Stage1 OE position works best rather than this, and like whats used in the D90 and this is one of the changes I made with my 109" V8.