Thread: I need a photoshop wiz.

a bit late, less a roll bar and metal canopy

now thats ugly

thats it guys...

specifially the dimensions for what I need to do will work with the setup Im looking at.

the space under the rear seats will be part of the utility area I need just enough space for the spare and a small securable area where my tools and expesinve stuff can be securd, the small tray area only needs to have enough space for some but not all of the following

2xswags/tent+bedding
Dogbox
Specialist tools/recovery gear

Ive already measured up the existing vehicle and the biggest problem is going to be the spare which I can still mount onto a swing-a-way If I need to.

The reasoning is

we need more space inside for the rear seats pushing them back 6 inches gives the internal space needed.
we need an easily accesable easily loadable space for smallish but heavy items and 2 people tripping over each other trying to fight 100Kg of tool box into the back of a side opening defender is getting old.
we need a space that can handle dirty loads like oily parts and small quantities of firewood without risk to the other gear
a flat working area thats at about chest hieght makes some field repair work a lot easier.
A load space that can take dogs without stinking up the inside of hte car.

Don't see why a 110 SW wouldn't be better at least everything is enclosed. You're not going to have much behind the rear seats and access will be a problem if you have passengers. As for fitting 2 swags and a dog box

Oh well, work in progress. I'm sure if you go ahead we will see an interesting vehicle emerge.

Sounds to me Dave like an extra 17in of chassis wouldnt hurt, if you get my drift.

But if you are gonna convert "Bigred" Would you get a more functional result losing the tub and going with a tray. Easy to extend it a bit, well easier than a tub. And you could easily lift it enough for a 235/85 to mount ontop of the fuel tank, beneath the tray?

I totally agree though having a tray is very useful for field repairs, work bench, cooktop etc etc.

Steve

You need a 130 crew cab with dropside body, or a custom built trailer for Big Red

or... a 110 wagon with the area behind the rear seats sealed off from the passenger compartment and the rear door converted to a Series 3 split door. You could do this with a cargo barrier, perspex sheet and some rubber moulding maybe??

Biggest issue I see is that after moving the rear seats back the rear passengers will be looking directly at a door frame out the sides and the seatbelts have nowhere to mount...

OR a 110 wagon body section on a 130 chassis - bit of fun fitting it around the rear wheels perhaps, but otherwise without thinking too much it could be easier???

Originally Posted by dm_td5

Don't see why a 110 SW wouldn't be better at least everything is enclosed. You're not going to have much behind the rear seats and access will be a problem if you have passengers. As for fitting 2 swags and a dog box

Oh well, work in progress. I'm sure if you go ahead we will see an interesting vehicle emerge.

its not 2 swags and a dog box its or...

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Sounds to me Dave like an extra 17in of chassis wouldnt hurt, if you get my drift.

But if you are gonna convert "Bigred" Would you get a more functional result losing the tub and going with a tray. Easy to extend it a bit, well easier than a tub. And you could easily lift it enough for a 235/85 to mount ontop of the fuel tank, beneath the tray?

I totally agree though having a tray is very useful for field repairs, work bench, cooktop etc etc.

Steve

no I still need the lockability of the tub under a metal cover deal for tools and parts and other expensive stuff.

Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

You need a 130 crew cab with dropside body, or a custom built trailer for Big Red

Originally Posted by EchiDna

or... a 110 wagon with the area behind the rear seats sealed off from the passenger compartment and the rear door converted to a Series 3 split door. You could do this with a cargo barrier, perspex sheet and some rubber moulding maybe??

Biggest issue I see is that after moving the rear seats back the rear passengers will be looking directly at a door frame out the sides and the seatbelts have nowhere to mount...

OR a 110 wagon body section on a 130 chassis - bit of fun fitting it around the rear wheels perhaps, but otherwise without thinking too much it could be easier???

the problem with big red ATM is that it does a lot of roles but only one at a time. Rear passanger foot space is getting to be an issue as is loading tools in and out of the back now that my tool box is puttin on weight.

The nice thing is that most of the roles That big red performs are mutually exclusive, IF the dogs are coming camping the trailer is coming so I dont need to worry about load space. IF the dogs are going in the car then we're taking them somewhere specific and dont need the trailer or the camping gear.

If Im going out with just the tools then I only need the tools and a swag on the back then I also usualy need a flat workspace for repair works..

The big motivator is the rear passanger leg room I dont want to get a differnt vehicle as big red covers all the bases and in theory it should be simple enough to modify the body work and shift the seating but as mentioned anchoring seat belts may be an issue BUT I might have a work around on that as thw late series III belts that anchor to the upper body work installed to the same standard of anchor as required by the rear belts in the 110's If I can work that past the engineers then its just a case of sorting some ally plate to shape and putting the gate on the tub to start with.

Ideally I want to keep the same physical size of the vehicle so no new overhangs OR exentions. I also want to keep it under $4k I know It measures up but I have to sell the SWMBO on the look of it.