Thread: SHOW ME YOURS

I have had two 2As with Holden red motors, and the Land Rover radiator is marginal as it is. The best way is to make a larger sump, as a larger radiator needs moving a lot of panels etc. In my 186 wagon, I put a fan from a V8 1 Tonner and a cowl and the temp went from just above the centre in normal driving and towards the red when off road to below centre of the gauge all the time.

Jeff

what do you know about the blue motor? ie what was it in and how many k's has it done? has it been rebuild latley?
blue motor heads are common to crack between the valves, but this usually shows up as bubbles in the radiator.
what plugs are you running? i ran ngk 7 heat range plugs.
also there are different length spacers that go behind the fan to get it closer to the radiator, you could try the longer one.

cheers phil

Originally Posted by discowhite

what do you know about the blue motor? ie what was it in and how many k's has it done? has it been rebuild latley?
blue motor heads are common to crack between the valves, but this usually shows up as bubbles in the radiator.
what plugs are you running? i ran ngk 7 heat range plugs.
also there are different length spacers that go behind the fan to get it closer to the radiator, you could try the longer one.

cheers phil

na engine is fine as we has a large knock in it so we changed all the bearings to find out it was only the crank hitting the oil pickup bracket once said bracket was trimed was fine & got new bearing as well also checked pistons they are 30thow over found out it was rebuilt a couple of yrs ago,, came out of a VH commodore.sparkies are 7 range,

Also noticed that i loose a little bit of water trew the overflow of radiator when its hot so got new cap to suit engine at 110 psi i think will have to check on psi for sure but it is the right 1 for the holden engine..i also have a thermo fan witch is on a on/off switch but i dont want to have to run it all the time i am driving..

gday,dont get rid of, you will regret it later, all the things you have got will make a good forby if only you sort these things out! I have a fc (3. 2 tonnes) with a 202 and its all about capacity, that radiator is a bit small but being new may help.You absolutely must have a full shrowd put over the fan , period, as its drawing through the sides. try getting a viscous coupling along with maybe a slightly bigger fan blades , it will slip on acceleration and give you a better pick up. I have a falcon 4.1 transverse radiator and the capacity is bigger and 5 feat of piping helps to, as long as it gets cooled down.Put all obstructions away from in front ,ie spotlamps etc. 202s have a 82 c thermostat, iv fitted a 74 c and its operating temp is about 90-95 where they are happy.I used a lazer temperature tester (borrowed) to confirm the gauges accuracy as voltage drops can vary there display.Have you tried pulling out the engine welsh plugs as the cavity sounds blocked ! IAN

In the old photo ... you might notice that flap of metal after the radiator



In the New photo ... you can see the size of the fan verses the radiator + the gap between.....



I would do the simple thing's in life .... Try making up a simple square boxed shaped cowling, made out of thin sheet metal


that will stop the fan from grabbing air from the sides ... + toss in a 76? degree thermostat .... (Run it cold Temp)

Mike

Originally Posted by banjo

na engine is fine as we has a large knock in it so we changed all the bearings to find out it was only the crank hitting the oil pickup bracket once said bracket was trimed was fine & got new bearing as well also checked pistons they are 30thow over found out it was rebuilt a couple of yrs ago,, came out of a VH commodore.sparkies are 7 range,

it may look fine but if x rayed probably not. i went through 5 blocks till i got one that x rayed good in the cylinder walls, it was then acid dipped and re x rayed. mind you alot of checking and expense goes into making 250hp+ from a 202. the water jackets can rust up, as too can the jackets in the head.
halfway down the head where the temp sender is, put a ''t'' piece in screw the sender back in one end of the ''t'' and run a hose from the other outlet of the ''t'' to the spare outlet of the thermostat housing. this will help with water flow.

but as suggested do the radiator cowl first and double check the ignition, too much advance will give you issues.

cheers phil

Originally Posted by banjo

Also noticed that i loose a little bit of water trew the overflow of radiator when its hot so got new cap to suit engine at 110 psi i think will have to check on psi for sure but it is the right 1 for the holden engine..i also have a thermo fan witch is on a on/off switch but i dont want to have to run it all the time i am driving..

would be 110degree and 13psi.

cheers phil