LR Transport Advice

**Dmmos** · 6th January 2010, 03:05 PM

Just looking for some advice on the following;

I've found a Series 3 SWB (

) that appears to be what I want, and am trying to figure out how to transport it (650km). I've done a number of online quote applications with car transport/freight companies, and they are (slowly) filtering through, with the only one to come so far a cool $785

People I've talked too have suggested I should be able to find something around $400, however I need it to be door-to-door (the owner & I are too far away from depots for this to be cost effective).

Given this, I think I'd just tow it (my original intention), as this would also give me a chance to see the car before it's purchased. The driving doesn't bother me (I drive a lot), it's merely pricing that I wanted to check with the wiser members of AULRO...

I'd be driving a Range Rover (V8, 2003) and hiring a car carrier from moveyourself for $119 (24 hours).

Fuel consumption for the car is around 14l/100km (premium

) - or at least that's what I read in a few places for this model, highway of course.

The trailer weighs 750kg, and it seems I'd be driving up with it (I can't find anything going one-way, and if I could the common hire period less than 24 hours - 9 hours - isn't a great deal cheaper (and I'd worry about going over this)).

Ultimately, how much more fuel would I use on the way up? After doing some research, it'd seem around 17l/100km on the way there, 20-23l/100km on the way down - although these figures are more of a guesstimate than anything else...

Following on from this, I calculate the cost of fuel to be;

(17*6.5) + (21.5*6.5) = 250.25*price of premium (1.30?)

= $325

Does this seem correct? Have I significantly over/under estimated how much I'd need?

Also, given that I haven't done a great deal of towing, I've done a little studying but does anybody here have any good tips?

Thanks in advance to the AULRO Brains Trust!

(And apologies to most of you, for what I'm sure is a very mundane question!)

Cheers,
Dave.

BTW the trip is straight up the Pacific Highway - I've never driven it, is there anything worth mentioning?

Thanks again!

Bugger - just read this and realised I won't be doing only highway driving (but it should be the vast majority of the trip...)

**V8Ian** · 6th January 2010, 03:38 PM

Load the trailer with the weight favouring the front of the trailer, you skould be able to lift the tow cup, just. Don't travel above 90kph, for safety and economy. Read the road well in advance, you are controlling (I hope) twice the normal weight that you are used to, and dont rely on the trailer brakes for much assistance with their task, usually there're not up to it. If possible chain the rear axle to the back of the trailer, keeping the chain as parellel as you can to the deck. Secure each wheel to the trailer with a ratchet strap, kept as short as possible. Make sure the car is in 1st or reverse low range, with the parking brake on. If the car is going to move in transit, it will be most likely forward, under braking. I've seen some scarry car trailer loading, even on this site; it's a wonder more cars don't part company with the trailer there they're on, or do we not hear about them?

**Dmmos** · 6th January 2010, 04:16 PM

Thanks for some very helpful advice!

Would it be best to have it in reverse (it might sound pedantic, but I want to be as safe as possible)?

**V8Ian** · 6th January 2010, 04:21 PM

Originally Posted by Dmmos

Thanks for some very helpful advice!

Would it be best to have it in reverse (it might sound pedantic, but I want to be as safe as possible)?

Never with a front engined car.

**Dmmos** · 6th January 2010, 04:24 PM

Is a Land Rover Series 3 a front engined car?

I meant reverse gear, but it's good to know that too!

**V8Ian** · 6th January 2010, 04:35 PM

Originally Posted by Dmmos

Is a Land Rover Series 3 a front engined car?

I meant reverse gear, but it's good to know that too!

If it's put together correctly, but we've all heard the horror stories about LR QC.

I don't think it makes that much difference, if any, aren't series 1st and reverse gears the same ratio?

**HUE166** · 6th January 2010, 04:55 PM

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Load the trailer with the weight favouring the front of the trailer, you skould be able to lift the tow cup, just. Don't travel above 90kph, for safety and economy. Read the road well in advance, you are controlling (I hope) twice the normal weight that you are used to, and dont rely on the trailer brakes for much assistance with their task, usually there're not up to it. If possible chain the rear axle to the back of the trailer, keeping the chain as parellel as you can to the deck. Secure each wheel to the trailer with a ratchet strap, kept as short as possible. Make sure the car is in 1st or reverse low range, with the parking brake on. If the car is going to move in transit, it will be most likely forward, under braking. I've seen some scarry car trailer loading, even on this site; it's a wonder more cars don't part company with the trailer there they're on, or do we not hear about them?

G'day V8Ian,

I've moved a lot of machinery by road in my time and I would have to say that having the SIII in gear with the handbrake on is presenting the risk of grinding teeth and binding brake shoes. Have you transported machinery like this often??

I would personally use reliable restraints ad leave the vehicle restrained but out of gear and no brake applied.

Cheers.

**Grumbles** · 6th January 2010, 04:57 PM

I'm not sure about a 2003 RR but would you have to lock the Air Suspension into Standard Ride Hight like earlier model RRs when towing. And help the tranny by selecting 3 when encountering hills and either 3 or 2 when descending to help both tranny and brakes??????

**isuzurover** · 6th January 2010, 05:04 PM

Originally Posted by V8Ian

If it's put together correctly, but we've all heard the horror stories about LR QC.

I don't think it makes that much difference, if any, aren't series 1st and reverse gears the same ratio?

No, common misconception. Reverse is taller than 1st on series 1-IIA boxes, and lower than first on S111 boxes.

So Reverse LOW with the FWH (if fitted) engaged would be best.

**V8Ian** · 6th January 2010, 05:55 PM

Originally Posted by HUE166

G'day V8Ian,

I've moved a lot of machinery by road in my time and I would have to say that having the SIII in gear with the handbrake on is presenting the risk of grinding teeth and binding brake shoes. Have you transported machinery like this often??

I would personally use reliable restraints ad leave the vehicle restrained but out of gear and no brake applied.

Cheers.

Many years experience on heavy haulage, admittedly I don't recall any machinary with manual type transmission. I have also done car carrying, all cars are transported in gear or park, with handbrake applied. This is not intended as the primary restraint, but a secondary safety method in case of primary restraint failure. Have you ever tried restraining a rubber tyred vehicle whilst it is in neutral? I also used to transport cars in fridge vans, the only restraint being the old tyres the car would be sitting in.

Thread: LR Transport Advice

Thread Tools

LR Transport Advice

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions