HOW HOT

**banjo** · 17th January 2010, 02:58 PM

and these ones i got them off a holden site karen found..

[edit] Further Timing Red/Blue/Back Six Cylinder Engine Details:

The Crankshaft must have the Harmonic Balancer Timing Mark in the correct position. The Timing Mark on the Harmonic Balancer may be in the wrong place or the outer part of the Balancer may have spun in the anticlockwise direction on the Balancer centre so check the images at this page to be sure the marks are in the correct position for your model Holden Engine. There are 2 broad categories.

All Red engines use the Red Harmonic Balancer.

All Blue/Black engines use the Blue/Black Harmonic Balancer.

1. First set the Crankshaft to the correct position by removing the Oil Filler Cap from the Rocker Cover and watching the frontmost Valve (the Number 1 Inlet Valve) as you rotate the Crankshaft. You can rotate the Crankshaft by putting a 1/2 " Spanner on the a Water Pump Bolt if you have Thermo Fans. Pressing down on the Fan Belt on the side nearest the Fuel Pump as you turn the Spanner will make the Fan Belt grip better.

2. When the Inlet Valve starts to open, the Number 1 Piston is beginning to descend on the Intake Stroke. When the Inlet Valve shuts the Number 1 Piston is on the Compression Stroke.

Note that there is a second Top Dead Centre at the end of the Exhaust Stroke sometimes called "On the Rock" or "Valve Overlap". This occurs as the Exhaust Valve is closing. This is the brief period where both Valve are paritally open. The Timing Mark will also line up here, but this is not the TDC position you need.

3. Keep rotating the Crankshaft until the Harmonic Balancer Timing Mark lines up with the 6 degree mark on the Timing Cover. Now you have the Crankshaft set at 6 degrees before Top Dead Centre set on the Number 1 Compression Stroke set accurately.

4. Now position the Rotor Button, Distributor Body and Number 1 Spark Plug Lead all to line up as per the 6 cylinder Diagram at this page.

You have now set the Static Timing to 6 degrees.

The Distributor is in the incorrect positoin. It has been rotated too far anti-clockwise making timing adjustment and Vacuum Hose connection very difficult to achieve. Click to Enlargen. Image by Red Seat.

The Distributor is in the incorrect positoin. It has been rotated too far anti-clockwise making timing adjustment and Vacuum Hose connection very difficult to achieve. Click to Enlargen. Image by Red Seat.

[edit] Checking the Static Timing With the Engine Running:

Once the Static Timing is set, remove the Vacuum Advance Line from the Distributor and plug it off. This makes sure that no Vacuum gets to the Distributor and that there is no Air Leak in the Fuel System.

Connect a Timing Light and start the Engine. You now aim to make the Ignition Timing and the Idle Speed agree. They will interact with each other.

If there is too much advance, the Idle Speed will be too high.

If there is too little advance, the Idle Speed will be too low.

You may need to adjust the Ignition Timing to 6 degrees first, then check the Tachometer.

Adjust the Timing and Throttle Stop until the Idle Speed and Timing are correct.

Once done, reconnect the Vacuum Advance Line to the Distributor.

The Bosch HEI page has timing from scratch details

**Blknight.aus** · 17th January 2010, 10:47 PM

all of which assumes that the timing mark on the crank pully is in the correct position on the crank.

the long post I gave lets you confirm your timing marks position and then once thats done you can run on with the rest of those instructions which deals with the fine timing of the engine saving me the effort of having to type it all out.

**banjo** · 18th January 2010, 07:27 AM

SORRY i had done all this before your post but i will be printing out your post & doing as you advised...

**banjo** · 18th January 2010, 04:38 PM

this is the cowl i made i think it will do the job ok....i hope,,,,,,,,,

SDC10537.jpg

SDC10538.jpg

SDC10539.jpg

SDC10540.jpg

**Blknight.aus** · 18th January 2010, 05:45 PM

urm thats not going to help all that much but its a good start...

what you need to do now is to make up a hoop of metal that goes around the fan (space it off about 1-2cm) then cut it in half support the top piece in its correct place and tack in some bracing rods to hold it to your new shroud then check out the location of the bottom half of the hoop.

If it still fits up nicely pull your shroud out and fabricate in panels that run from the hoop out.

slide that back in and do the same for the bottom. When you have the bottom piece in place dont tack it to the shroud but make an overlap that will bolt through.

I suspect that with that shroud you will be getting a lot of recirculation which will be reducing the effect of the fan.

**banjo** · 19th January 2010, 01:36 PM

well karen took out the rover today to pickup our papers,we deliver them.she got the papers & when she went to start it up to come home it wouldnt start so she rang me on the phone it sounded like it wasnt getting any spark ,,so i went & met her thereagain 5min drive..when i got there checked everything under the bonet all looked fine so i went & tried to start it nothing it turned over but no start,,so i pumped the pedal a bit held it down bingo started with a bit of smoke i recon she flooded it thats all..anyway while karen was driving it she said the temp gauge stayed on the 140 mark all the time...so i drove it home & gave it a boot full (cleaning the carby out )

till i got stuck behind a slow moving truck,,well it stayed on the 140 mark & rose a little while @ trafic lights ,went back to the 140 mark once moving again...when i got home i turned it off then unlocked everything to put papers inside,then i thought i would just see if it would start again bingo as soon as i turned the key.but i noticed before i started it just with the ignision on the temp gauge went up to about 160 maybe a little more ,,wouldnt that just be because the car was off & no air going threw..?????????????????????????

**Stuck** · 19th January 2010, 02:33 PM

Hi Banjo,
It's normal for the temp to rise when you switch them off because the coolant isn't flowing. The Holden 6 normally runs at around 80 Celsius or 180 Farenheit so I'm presuming your thermostat is either sticking, has its guts cut out or has been removed. I know from experience that the 3rd one can cause overheating when the motor's revving pretty hard (as they do in a Rover with standard diffs).
What was the gremlin that was causing yours to overheat ?.
Cheers,
Anthony.

**banjo** · 19th January 2010, 03:02 PM

Hey stuck the car was overheating but i think it mite be ok now ..the temp sender off the engine wasnt compatable the dash gauge & was allways reading HOT so we got an electric one & it was reading 180 plus but we only had a 4blade fan on it with the thermo fan in front of the radiator.but once i put the 6blade fan on it it was getting to 150 to 160 so we put a thermostat in as it never had one ,we got the coldest one we could for the engine witch from memerry if a 70 degree plus i drilled a couple of extra little hole in it bout the same size as the one in it with that valve thingy..but the radiator was getting realy hot couldnt realy touch it.but everything is new so i think it maybe ok,but i do have to tune that holley i know that..plus now it has a cowl sort of plus we diconected the origanal temp sender & gauge.now it just stays around the 140 when driving & about 150 to 155 @ traffic lights so we thought that was pretty good...just need to put coolant in now as its only water but we think it mite be sorted so i better put coolant in...
PS havent had to run the thermofan since the bigger fan (6 blade ) & cowl has been fitted witch can only be a good thing...

**banjo** · 19th January 2010, 03:04 PM

oh yeah karen said that the radiator & bonet where still hot after it had been running well it was when it wouldnt start & she opened the bonet...

**agrojnr** · 19th January 2010, 03:49 PM

Holden six banger don't like starting when hot never have never will but electronic ign will help.

I had a 186 in my series and in summer she ran at 95-105c (i only had a thermo LARGE) but when I changed mu coolent once I had a problem like yours.

I filled mine up with the thermostat cover and thermostat removed until full then installed the above and top hose added coolant and topped up.

I let it idle with rad cap off for 10mins or so and once it started to warm I put cap back on. I then pumped all hose's just too make sure and then went for a drive. When back waited it too cool and checked/top up the water level.

Mine was runninf 15psi cap + overflow bottle (series 3 rad)

Adam

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