Thread: Info on original 4speed

Originally Posted by navigation2000

Eddie,

I agree with pfillery, you will need to ensure it's genuinely unused.

I don't know if the seller is able to confidently confirm this, given that the unit was probably sourced at auction somewhere, but having said that, I do believe it to be a new and therefore unused unit.

You should be able to determine visually if it is a brand spanker, so a trip to visit the seller would be the next move I'd be making if I were you.

Even if it is a newie, you would probably still want to re-gasket/seal the whole thing, just to be safe.


@pfillery,

PM me with your phone number so we can talk about it, if you wish.

Yep mate I agree, tried to call him no ans, left a message, hope to hear something soon. Just a quick question, my gear lever comes virtually strait up out of the floor - no kink init, I assume its a six cylander bell housing?? are the g/b all the same or is it some differance in the S3 boxes that I dont know about? If I buy this g/b I assume all I do is swap the bellhousing over from my Landy? Thanks best regards Eddie

Originally Posted by Eddie S

Yep mate I agree, tried to call him no ans, left a message, hope to hear something soon. Just a quick question, my gear lever comes virtually strait up out of the floor - no kink init, I assume its a six cylander bell housing?? are the g/b all the same or is it some differance in the S3 boxes that I dont know about? If I buy this g/b I assume all I do is swap the bellhousing over from my Landy? Thanks best regards Eddie

Hi Eddie,

I'm not right up with the ID processes of these things, but my SIII box also had a straight up and down gearshift, and zooming in on the image of the one for sale, it looks just like mine.

You would unbolt yours at the adaptor plate, and drop the whole thing out in 1 go.

Not sure what equipment you have at hand, so not sure if you're planning to drop it down beneath the vehicle and then slide it out, or lift it up and take it out through the passenger side door.

I can certainly give you a step by step guide to the lifting it out through the door method.

If you do proceed, snag a new clutch and pressure plate, thrust bearing and spigot, gearbox mounts etc, as well.

I reckon if you're going to pull up your sleeves and get into it, you may as well do it once and be done with it.

Revisiting the gearbox swap later on, due to lack of preparation, or opting to run with old parts, is just madness in my opinion.

Having said that, I reckon you could knock it over pretty quick, with the right gear at hand, and with a bit of a step by step guide to follow.

I can PM you with my phone number if you want, and that way if you ever need a quick answer for something, just call, my phone is on 24/7.

Originally Posted by navigation2000

Hi Eddie,

I'm not right up with the ID processes of these things, but my SIII box also had a straight up and down gearshift, and zooming in on the image of the one for sale, it looks just like mine.

You would unbolt yours at the adaptor plate, and drop the whole thing out in 1 go.

Not sure what equipment you have at hand, so not sure if you're planning to drop it down beneath the vehicle and then slide it out, or lift it up and take it out through the passenger side door.

I can certainly give you a step by step guide to the lifting it out through the door method.

If you do proceed, snag a new clutch and pressure plate, thrust bearing and spigot, gearbox mounts etc, as well.

I reckon if you're going to pull up your sleeves and get into it, you may as well do it once and be done with it.

Revisiting the gearbox swap later on, due to lack of preparation, or opting to run with old parts, is just madness in my opinion.

Having said that, I reckon you could knock it over pretty quick, with the right gear at hand, and with a bit of a step by step guide to follow.

I can PM you with my phone number if you want, and that way if you ever need a quick answer for something, just call, my phone is on 24/7.

Thanks mate, that would be good of you. I've got a mate that's a truck mechanic and owns a TDI Dizzy he offered to help me pull the G/B out, unfortunately his arthritis has flared up pretty bad so I don't want to bother him. I don't have much equipment at home but I have a good size garage and I can hire/buy what I need. I dont have a military cross member set up and the seatbox bolts look rusted up. What my truck mechanic mate suggested is taking the T/F case off first then the main G/B as to enable us to clear the cross member, not sure about this myself. Then using large ratchet straps and the jack to lower both G/B and T/F case to the ground separately. I've had limited mechanical experiance on my own but do most of the minor work myself I've helped my mate with various work in the past and always eager to give it a try. I have'nt heard from the guy selling that new G/B & T/F case on E bay. Beast regards Eddie. P/S love those photos of your truck.

Originally Posted by Eddie S

Thanks mate, that would be good of you. I've got a mate that's a truck mechanic and owns a TDI Dizzy he offered to help me pull the G/B out, unfortunately his arthritis has flared up pretty bad so I don't want to bother him. I don't have much equipment at home but I have a good size garage and I can hire/buy what I need. I don't have a military cross member set up and the seat box bolts look rusted up. What my truck mechanic mate suggested is taking the T/F case off first then the main G/B as to enable us to clear the cross member, not sure about this myself. Then using large ratchet straps and the jack to lower both G/B and T/F case to the ground separately. I've had limited mechanical experience on my own but do most of the minor work myself I've helped my mate with various work in the past and always eager to give it a try. I haven't heard from the guy selling that new G/B & T/F case on E bay. Beast regards Eddie. P/S love those photos of your truck.

Hi Eddie,

Just my opinion, but I reckon it's easier to lift it out in 1 piece, through the front passenger side door.

If care is taken with it, no damage will be done.

I have the removable cross member, but I still went out through the door with mine.

As for the seat box bolts, they're not very expensive to replace, but there is quite a few of them to undo. They just take time to work through. If they're seized, then snap 'em off, it would be faster, but you may need a few goes to get them all done, as the exertion will be a factor for you.

Splitting the transfer off the box while it's all still in the vehicle will be a messy affair, and if you plan to do that, buy a few boxes of soap and shampoo, and degreaser...and maybe some quality deodorant too, because you're going to get dirty, and so is everything else.

Originally Posted by navigation2000

Hi Eddie,

Just my opinion, but I reckon it's easier to lift it out in 1 piece, through the front passenger side door.

If care is taken with it, no damage will be done.

I have the removable cross member, but I still went out through the door with mine.

As for the seat box bolts, they're not very expensive to replace, but there is quite a few of them to undo. They just take time to work through. If they're seized, then snap 'em off, it would be faster, but you may need a few goes to get them all done, as the exertion will be a factor for you.

Splitting the transfer off the box while it's all still in the vehicle will be a messy affair, and if you plan to do that, buy a few boxes of soap and shampoo, and degreaser...and maybe some quality deodorant too, because you're going to get dirty, and so is everything else.

Thanks mate, I'm thinking out through passenger door is the way to go - will keep you posted on my progress. If ok by tou can you PM your phone details so I can call you if need your advice? Once again thanks very much for your help so far and all others who have contributed to helping me understand these S3 beasts.

Originally Posted by Eddie S

Thanks mate, I'm thinking out through passenger door is the way to go - will keep you posted on my progress. If ok by tou can you PM your phone details so I can call you if need your advice? Once again thanks very much for your help so far and all others who have contributed to helping me understand these S3 beasts.

Sure Eddie,

Will PM you now with my phone number.

If you want, and if your mechanic mate is agreeable, then arrange to be with him when you call me, that way I can give you both an overview of what you need to do.

Originally Posted by navigation2000

Sure Eddie,

Will PM you now with my phone number.

If you want, and if your mechanic mate is agreeable, then arrange to be with him when you call me, that way I can give you both an overview of what you need to do.

Thanks very much Ross for your info on the G/B Would you, or . anybody else out there know if there is any difference in the length of the input shafts in the G/B between a G/B behind a 4cyl and a 6cyl.? I was chatting to a mechanic mate of mine who mentioned this, I thought the G/Bs are interchangeable only the bell housings were different however this may not be the case. The reason I ask is I spoke to the guy selling that "new G/B & T/F case" and if all looks ok I'm thinking of buying it. I'd hate to buy it only to find the G/B wont fit my bell housing. I don't Know if its 4cyl or 6cyl set up he is selling he's not sure either.Anyone help

G' day all, spoke to George from LVS, apparently all the S3 G/Bs input shafts ARE the same length in ALL 4cyl & 6cyl cars and are interchangagle. What differs is th belhousings - 4yl differs to 6cyl. The S3 G/B has theslave cylander mounted on the passenger side in horizontal position while the S2 &2A have them mounted on drivers side in vertical positon. At least that takes some of the mystery out od ID G/B. I will be checking it out very soon let you all know. Once again thanks for all your responses. Best regards Eddie.