Thread: 5 speed Nissan box

Fantastic! Especially that last picture. That tells me I have a 5-speed Nissan!

There are many threads on this site re Nissan 5-speed boxes but very few with pictures so this is all gold!

Thanks so much for your help.

I will see if I can find more numbers in the locations you have shown.


Cheers!

Originally Posted by drifter

I suspect you would have a similar problem

What makes you say that?

I am trying to psych myself up to go out an start a belt change on my Freelander but it is tooo cold.

Why don't you clean out your garage and move the LWB into the garage and work on it in there. You are so close to getting it all finished - you know you want to do it.

Garry

Originally Posted by navigation2000

The black bulb thing is the reverse mechanism I mentioned earlier. Don't touch that.

The other "thing", just behind your 4x4 stick, which may be a bolt, not sure, can't see it too well, THAT'S the reverse switch location.

It may be still there, just covered in grime.

It's supposed to have a rubber boot over it to keep it free of filth...haha.

Aha!

Cool - I plan to run a pressure washer over it all when I start work on it so all should be revealed!

As for rubber boots.... the ones it has appear to be badly rotted so I am not surprised it has a few missing.

Thanks

Originally Posted by garrycol

What makes you say that?

yeah, right... remember, I have met you...

Originally Posted by garrycol

I am trying to psych myself up to go out an start a belt change on my Freelander but it is tooo cold.

Tell me about it. I kept turning the SW around on the driveway so I was in the sun when crawling underneath. Didn't help with the breeze though.

Originally Posted by garrycol

Why don't you clean out your garage and move the LWB into the garage and work on it in there. You are so close to getting it all finished - you know you want to do it.

Garry

That would not be a good political move. If I clean it out for MY CAR and not hers, I will be forced to deal with an upset woman - and I have had enough experience in that department to not deliberately put myself there.

I am going to rebuild the old distributor and go back to that. It is the only one that has actually worked properly in the engine. A brand new one wouldn't even let me start the thing and the electronic one seems to change every time I start the engine. Stupid things!

The plan will be to tune the new carb properly with a known working dissy and THEN swap to a new dissy - with the two of them being new, I cannot tell which I need to adjust to get the correct results.

For a start, I would be happy to have the engine idle without the choke out and smoke coming out the exhaust...

Anyway - that's for the 2a rebuild thread. This is the "identification of the gearbox" thread

Originally Posted by drifter

yeah, right... remember, I have met you...


I am going to rebuild the old distributor and go back to that. It is the only one that has actually worked properly in the engine. A brand new one wouldn't even let me start the thing and the electronic one seems to change every time I start the engine. Stupid things!

The plan will be to tune the new carb properly with a known working dissy and THEN swap to a new dissy - with the two of them being new, I cannot tell which I need to adjust to get the correct results.

For a start, I would be happy to have the engine idle without the choke out and smoke coming out the exhaust...

Anyway - that's for the 2a rebuild thread. This is the "identification of the gearbox" thread

I presume you've addressed the wiring adequately enough to suit the electric (HEI) dizzy?

The standard Land Rover wiring is only rated to handle a points dizzy, and while I'm not sure if they used a "resisted" feed wire in their specs, it doesn't really matter, because that feed wire must be upgraded to cope with HEI anyway, and a relay must also be installed.

It's a simple task to make this wiring modification, but after having done so, you can't revert back to a points dizzy without again rewiring backwards to suit the points. If you run a full 12 volts to the points dizzy, it will very quickly kill the point contacts.

Originally Posted by navigation2000

I presume you've addressed the wiring adequately enough to suit the electric (HEI) dizzy?

The standard Land Rover wiring is only rated to handle a points dizzy, and while I'm not sure if they used a "resisted" feed wire in their specs, it doesn't really matter, because that feed wire must be upgraded to cope with HEI anyway, and a relay must also be installed.

It's a simple task to make this wiring modification, but after having done so, you can't revert back to a points dizzy without again rewiring backwards to suit the points. If you run a full 12 volts to the points dizzy, it will very quickly kill the point contacts.

The vehicle was completely rewired.

The electronic dizzy didn't come with any doco - just an extra wire that went back to the hot side of the coil. No mention of a relay requirement.

Back to your pictures... where is the location of that text that clearly shows it is a Marks adaptor? I am assuming it is at the bottom. Which side?

As for the gearbox serial number. I cleaned the oil off that top part of the gearbox under the firewall and, yes, it certainly looks like the place a serial number would go. At the moment, though, there is so much blue paint there I cannot actually distinguish any lettering. I may hit the paint with a wire brush and see what it reveals.

Originally Posted by drifter

The vehicle was completely rewired.

The electronic dizzy didn't come with any doco - just an extra wire that went back to the hot side of the coil. No mention of a relay requirement.

Back to your pictures... where is the location of that text that clearly shows it is a Marks adaptor? I am assuming it is at the bottom. Which side?

As for the gearbox serial number. I cleaned the oil off that top part of the gearbox under the firewall and, yes, it certainly looks like the place a serial number would go. At the moment, though, there is so much blue paint there I cannot actually distinguish any lettering. I may hit the paint with a wire brush and see what it reveals.

I'd have to know what dizzy you have before saying more, but if it's a Bosch HEI, from a Commodore etc, it requires 12 volts to function properly, and your mention of the engine not running "right" at varying times, could it be suggesting that it's reacting to varied stages of battery charge?

A Bosch HEI will run on a low power feed , but it can't run properly as it's effectively being starved.

Let me go back out there and snap a few more pictures.

I'll collect as many as I can find and upload them here.

The "Hall Cell" (Hall Effect sensor/module) is a 12 volt component, so even if the vehicle was rewired, was it rewired with the upgrade to a 12 volt dizzy in mind?

Even those 1 x wire big capped Chev type dizzies require a full 12 volts, and yeah, I know what you mean about no info coming with stuff lik that, for the sellers almost always assume you already know the basics, and thus leave you posted more often than not.

Back soon with pictures...

Cheers for that.

The rewire was on the HT (not the one with the Nissan gearbox) and I was not aware that the -ve side of the coil to the dizzy was a resistive wire - I just ran a 'normal' wire. When I put the electronic dizzy in I ran an extension on the 'new' wire that came with it to the +ve side of the coil.

The battery is not handling things too well - it is old and past its replacement date - doesn't hold a charge too well - but the new alternator is pumping out a steady 12V

Looking forward to new pics.