Ok my non-mechanicalness is going to come out now.... what is a restrictor plate and what does it do? how much?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
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Ok my non-mechanicalness is going to come out now.... what is a restrictor plate and what does it do? how much?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
that should have read kill the gearbox.
a restrictor plate is just a plate with a smaller hole drilled in it to limit the engines max power.
I'm backing pfillerys previous posts and reckon that if your even half decent with the spanners (which pretty much means you know which end of the screwdriver you hold onto and that its the end of the spanners that go on the nuts/bolts) you'll get out of replacing the alternator, waterpump and fitting an electric fuel pump for less than $350.
To test what youve got identify which is squealing at you (most likely the alternator if the pumps not dropping water) by removing the belt and turning each by hand) and get the engine running by means of a lawnmower fuel tank strapped to the roof gravity feeding the carby.
as a side thought a 202 on LPG wouldnt be a bad option BUT lpg just got stupidly expensive.
yea a water pump, fuel pump (is already off) and alternator is a piece of cake to change!Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
What concerns me is if it has unleaded valves, if not how bad are the valves... and what condition all of the piston rings are in. Remembering i've never actually seen this beast running! only a couple of spurts today when i poured fuel down the carb.
I found a new head with unleaded valves for 450 plus freight also... but I figured by the time I change that and the water pump, alternator (if needed; although i did spin it and it doesnt' seem to make noise) I could just buy a nice professionally redone motor for not a lot more as well as have the added bonus of a bit more poke!
What bugs me most was that I was hoping to have this thing on the road soonish.... now i have unforseen holdups! :( Although I should have known better purchasing a 30yr old car without seeing the engine run.... silly me....
3:1 says its fine.
rip the rocker cover off, your going to improvise a leak down test, you'll need a friend, an air compressor and one of the dusting guns with a big rubber cone shapped nose on it.
with the rocker cover off , remove the spark plugs identify which valves are on the rock (exhaust still closing inlet just opening) and then test the cylinder that is opposite it over the center (if 4 is rocking test 3, 2 test 5 1 test 6)
to test lock the vehicle into 4 hi and secure the vehicle put compressed air into the cylinder through the plug hole listen at the inlet and the exhaust if you dont hear much then the seals are good enough to work. then simply turn the engine over 120ish degrees to get the next pot ready and go again.
you can get cheap compression testers for $50ish Stanley Compact Compression Tester - Supercheap Auto Australia on ebay) (cheaper on ebay)
the test principle is the same but you push the gauge into the plug hole and with the vehicle in neutral spin the engine over on the starter and read the pressure. Done.
3:1 says its fine.
rip the rocker cover off, your going to improvise a leak down test, you'll need a friend, an air compressor and one of the dusting guns with a big rubber cone shapped nose on it.
with the rocker cover off , remove the spark plugs identify which valves are on the rock (exhaust still closing inlet just opening) and then test the cylinder that is opposite it over the center (if 4 is rocking test 3, 2 test 5 1 test 6)
to test lock the vehicle into 4 hi and secure the vehicle put compressed air into the cylinder through the plug hole listen at the inlet and the exhaust if you dont hear much then the seals are good enough to work. then simply turn the engine over 120ish degrees to get the next pot ready and go again.
you can get cheap compression testers for $50ish Stanley Compact Compression Tester - Supercheap Auto Australia (cheaper on ebay) Wilmar W80580 Compression Tester Tool 0-300 PSI | eBay
the test principle is the same but you push the gauge into the plug hole and with the vehicle in neutral spin the engine over on the starter and read the pressure. Done.
Managed to borrow a compression tester from a mate!
Going to try to do a test tomorrow. What sort of PSI should I expect from a good/acceptable/poor cylinder?
It's more about consistancy across the cylinders. As long as they are all relatively even -say within about 10PSI of each other, then I wouldn't be worried too much. As for actual values, I would guesstimate about 140PSI for an engine with a few Km on it - could be wrong, it depends on what compression engine it originally was - there was a HC and LC version.
Talking to the Holden guys, they say not to be concerned running a 186 with unleaded. Apparently they will run a couple of hundred thousand k's before the valves die. So basically if you have to do the valves, do unleaded valves, as the price difference is minimal, but if the valves are ok just leave them, and they say not to worry too much about lead replacers, valve additives etc. This is just the vibe I've heard from holden gurus so don't quote me on it, bear in mind a holden engine in a landy is strained a little more.
But stick with a 186.
As for the 186 is better than 202 argument, I think the age and condition of the engine would be more important, I have had a 202 that was very good and a 186 that was very ordinary. When they were new it may have been different, but that was a long time ago.
Jeff
:rocket:
Quickly did a compression test this morning. Looks like the rings are on the way out....going to see how much a rebuild kit is and compare that to new engines or a recon head.yes I know i'm talking about 2 different bits but if i'm pulling the engine apart them I'd prefer to do everything so that its pretty much new.
So I guess I have a bunch of researching to do.