Here's a pick of the 186 that I removed from the series 1, these bores are pretty thin as you can see there's a piece missing, It also took the top off the piston.
[IMG][/IMG]
I'm not going to spend big dollars if it's not worth it, still going to pull it right down and check the bores. I've got enough cars laying around already so I don't want anymore and the lip isn't that bad. I'll see what I can pick up a block for at the wreckers and decide whether I go any further. If it's not salvageable and another block costs too much I'll sell the good parts of and try to get my money back from what I paid in fuel to get it. If it turns out like that I'll look for another motor possibly Holden or maybe look at the Ford motors again but they cost a bit so probably the Holden motor still. I'm going to do a compression test on the 2.25 and see how it's going. Let you know whats happening.
Here's a pick of the 186 that I removed from the series 1, these bores are pretty thin as you can see there's a piece missing, It also took the top off the piston.
[IMG][/IMG]
That is a serious hole in the cylinder wall! Unbelievbly I got an email from a bloke saying he's got a 202 Black with an auto box and he said he's willing to sell it for $50! I don't really want an auto but if he doesn't want it I'll take it a maybe sell of the auto and the good parts off the Red motor. He said it would need a rebuild but a fuel injected motor with electronic injection out of a VK Commodore isn't bad for $50. Auto 1 got back to me and they said they can get me a full set of pistons .080 oversize for $200 from Perth. I'm very interested in the Black motor but I don't know what they're like reliability wise and what they're like to work on so be interesting to look at as an option.
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						PM Sent
Mocky
Mate for $50 it's worth it you might even make a couple of $$ selling the trans, you can fit a carby manifold to the 12 port head and not worry about the EFI setup, being alot younger than the old red motor might also have better water jackets but I believe you would have to fit the vacuum hoses up to the charcoal canister because of emission laws (it may pay to check that out).
The old 186 block has seen better days, I'll remove all the good bits and scrap the block.
Cheers Chris
BUY.
Steel crank. Use.
12 port head. Use.
Find set blue rods next and the piston and you're set.
Or just use the black engine with blue rods as the black are worse than reds.
I believe the drag racing guys put 202 cranks and pistons into 186 blocks.
They machine the journals down on the crank so that it fits the 186 block and apparently this combination is a far better engine for pulling revs.
The 202 pistons have to be used as they are shorter from the gudgeon up. Another option they do is use the falcon 3.6 lt (221ci) crank and machine the journals to fit etc. I was in a local machine shop recently picking up my Landy engine parts and one of the automotive machinist who is into drag racing showed me a modified Falcon crank he was setting up.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
I'm certainly leaning towards the Black 202 instead of the hassle of the busted red motor. I don't mind the EFI cause of not having to stuff around with carby settings, no need to play with emission control cause its not registeredI got a kind offer from some one on the forum saying that they've got a Blue 202 that they know of and its $200 in not bad condition, and another forum member offered me an adapter to suit a Rover V8 which I'd like quite a bit, the only issue is gearbox strength, but everyone in the UK says they run a V8 with standard Landy gear and they flog the crap out of it without problems so I don't know if this is true or not.
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