Manual Choke 202 Holden Motor

The short answer is that someone clearly has for some reason unscrewed the brass outer section after testing the carby, probably while undoing the fuel pipe. When screwing it back in they weren't careful enough to hold the needle and seat level or uphill while screwing it back in. Just put the needle, pointy end towards the seat, in the outer bit and carefully screw it back in. Then with your finger tip maneuver the float against the needle so it's gently closed. The top face of the float should be near level, there's a measurement in every Holden workshop manual but you should be able to find it online.

Fuel pressure opens the needle, no spring is needed.

The pointed end goes into the jet (the hole) so fuel can flow out around it at varying rates depending on how far into the jet the needle is pressed. Yours looks like that point has a rubber coating - all the better to seal it with.

Get some sort of manual for that carby. The float level can be set by bending that tab but you need to have the right procedure and the right measurement. It's dead easy though but important. If the float rides too high, your engine will flood. If it rides too low, your engine may not get enough fuel.

It's a pretty basic system but works well. Taking the time to get things like the float level right though, can make a big difference to the way your engine runs. Working on carbies is also satisfying (or maybe I really am crackers :angel:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

The short answer is that someone clearly has for some reason unscrewed the brass outer section after testing the carby, probably while undoing the fuel pipe. When screwing it back in they weren't careful enough to hold the needle and seat level or uphill while screwing it back in. Just put the needle, pointy end towards the seat, in the outer bit and carefully screw it back in. Then with your finger tip maneuver the float against the needle so it's gently closed. The top face of the float should be near level, there's a measurement in every Holden workshop manual but you should be able to find it online.

Fuel pressure opens the needle, no spring is needed.

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Wot 'e sed :cool:

(he posted it while I was composing mine :eek:)

Hello BeeUtey & Crackers,

Okay it is all back together. Now when I hold the various levers in place and shake the carburettor up and down gently I can hear the float move up and down.

I am just going out to get the battery on charge so that I can have a go at starting the engine again after I get everything back in the engine compartment. Fingers crossed for tomorrow :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

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Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Fingers crossed for tomorrow :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

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Can't work the fire extinguisher with your fingers crossed :Rolling:

Have fun mate.

This is why I love old vehicles, you CAN tinker with this stuff. If my MG stuffs up, it's pull underside of the dash out, remove the computer, post it to England, get it fixed, wait for it to be returned, then put the damned car back together again. I really do miss my MGB sometimes (still reckon I'll put twin SUs on the Landy :eek:)

Hello Poor People I am trying the patience of,

Between the previous owner and myself the hold down bolt for the distributor has become loose. This means I am not sure where the distributor should be facing roughly before I start to work out where the cam is and the gap in the points begin to open. Using the vacuum advance as a guide should it be turned towards the motor, turned away from the motor or roughly at the 3 o'clock position?

This is to roughly gauge a starting point before adjusting the position to advance or retard the distributor.

At the moment the distributor is very loose so I have no idea where it should be roughly positioned before I start to set the timing.

I have both feeler gauges and a timing light with a dwell meter.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crackers

Can't work the fire extinguisher with your fingers crossed :Rolling:

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Very droll Crackers .... slow clap ;)

Kind Regards
Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Hello Poor People I am trying the patience of,

Between the previous owner and myself the hold down bolt for the distributor has become loose. This means I am not sure where the distributor should be facing roughly before I start to work out where the cam is and the gap in the points begin to open. Using the vacuum advance as a guide should it be turned towards the motor, turned away from the motor or roughly at the 3 o'clock position?

This is to roughly gauge a starting point before adjusting the position to advance or retard the distributor.

At the moment the distributor is very loose so I have no idea where it should be roughly positioned before I start to set the timing.

I have both feeler gauges and a timing light with a dwell meter.

Kind Regards
Lionel

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There is NO WAY you can tell where the distributor should be just by looking, as the gear on the bottom means it could be put in in an number of different positions and run the same. FIRST you'll have to turn the engine so that the timing mark on the front pulley lines up with one of the marks on the timing cover, preferably 6 degrees BTDC or thereabouts. THEN you rotate the distributor anticlockwise to the exact point where the points open, THEN clamp it down. All things being equal the rotor button should point to the number 1 cylinder lead position.

To find the exact position where the points are opening you can switch on the ignition, then the coil lead if safely clipped near a metal part of the vehicle will spark at that exact position.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

There is NO WAY you can tell where the distributor should be just by looking, as the gear on the bottom means it could be put in in an number of different positions and run the same. FIRST you'll have to turn the engine so that the timing mark on the front pulley lines up with one of the marks on the timing cover, preferably 6 degrees BTDC or thereabouts. THEN you rotate the distributor anticlockwise to the exact point where the points open, THEN clamp it down. All things being equal the rotor button should point to the number 1 cylinder lead position.

To find the exact position where the points are opening you can switch on the ignition, then the coil lead if safely clipped near a metal part of the vehicle will spark at that exact position.

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Hello Bee Utey,

I have watched the Supercheap You Tube video and it matches what you said.

I thought that the physical position of the vacuum advance unit may give a starting point from which the finer adjustment could start from. Because I do not have a known starting point where the engine actually starts.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c[/ame]

Did the Supercheap video miss anything?

Kind Regards
Lionel

Here you go, John Twist showing how to static time your MG... but it'll work for your Landy too

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y[/ame]