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Thread: 202's, Radiators, Gearboxes and other crazy things

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    2,902
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    Fit a standard series 3 radiator support panel (they allow about 25% more air flow than the earlier 2/2A ones) and a standard series radiator, ditch the engine fan, fit some electric fans either side, pushing and pulling air.
    I have a 14 inch pushing at the front and two 10 inch pulling at the rear.
    Up grade your alternator to a 55amp or even more. An alternative is an aluminium radiator as they disperse heat 25% more efficiently than their copper/brass cousins can, and they can be purchased reasonably cheap these days. You could get one made to order with outlets to suit the Holden donk. You can even get a series copy in aluminium here but you would need to get the outlets modified.
    Land Rover Parts - RADIATOR - L/ROVER 4 cyl. 1968-84 (Copper or Aluminium)
    Make sure the system is clean and run a good coolant.
    If you want to increase air flow when you are travelling with a tail wind to assist with cooling, make up a couple of deflectors that will lift air from below the bumper bar and direct it up through the radiator. I have some on my vehicle and if I didn't point them out no one would know they are there. They work very well too, stops the lecci fans cutting in when travelling with a tail wind on hot day.
    Fit 3.54 diff centres to slow the drivetrain speed down and reduce your engine rpm, the torquey 202 will handle it with ease. It will still even handle the overdrive, but if you find it is lacking a bit of grunt drop a Crow towing cam in, or a Holden straight six EFI cam (they are very similar) and a heavier flywheel, but they are a bit harder to set up.


    As for converting to 109 six cylinder specifications to move the motor and gearbox back it would take a bit of work, relocating chassis mounting points, new bulkhead, and associated floor panels and transmission covers etc. Still not impossible though.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    The high speed transfer case involves modification of the existing case - or buying a modified case from Ashcrofts along with the gears. Any GOOD machine shop can do it, but I've heard of people botching it. It requires the intermediate shaft to be moved slightly. The Ashcroft kit gives you a 27% increase in high range, but doesn't increase your low range - or maybe a bit, I can't exactly recall, but it is a good option if you have a few more HP than standard - a bog standard 2.25 will struggle a bit, but a 202 or something similar would love it. It won't get rid of the whine from the box, but will drop it down a notch.

    3.54 diffs reduce the drivetrain noise as they slow everything down except the wheel rotations!
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,795
    Total Downloaded
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    Quote Originally Posted by EKjimmy View Post
    Hi Rod,
    Yes the thought did cross my mind, although I can't think of the last time I saw a starfire for sale. Not a bad idea if a good runner comes along though.

    Colin, does the high speed transfer idea involve a whole new transfer, or rebuilding the existing one with different gears? Another good option, although the main thing that irritates me is the gearbox whine itself
    I think you can send the casing to Ashcroft as an exchange or as Homestar mentioned just buy the parts and get a machine shop to move the intermediate shaft.
    My Isuzu C240 powered Shorty came with one fitted but it may have been a local conversion because one gear was made up of two machined & welded together !

    Picture of the transfer box below, you can see that the intermediate shaft is sitting in a section of aluminium that has been fitted & keyed into the housing.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powe...ml#post1720389

    As for the whine.....YOU CAN'T HEAR IT OVER THE ISUZU MOTOR !

    There is probably just as much whining from the diffs.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Castle Hill NSW
    Posts
    14
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    Yes I had a look at ashcroft's instructions for the high speed conversion - luckily my Dad is a toolmaker by trade, so he could do that standing on his head.
    Maybe I'll just leave it alone for a while until I can be stuffed revisiting the gearbox subject.
    The cooling system is an easy fix though.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Bendigo VIC
    Posts
    11
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    Regarding your radiator. My Series 1 has a really-well-done Holden 179 conversion done by the prior owner in the late 70's. I took the radiator in to be recored earlier in the year and turns out it's from a 50's Ford Popular. Apparently they're used a bit for hot rods. The cap's been relocated to come off the back so the bonnet will close. Tight but fits well and does the job. Might be worth investigating.. I just had enough room to add a really skinny thermo fan on the front.

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