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Thread: It moves!

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    After you are satisfied the carby, fuel pump, and fuel lines are clean fit an in line filter between the fuel pump and fuel tank to ensure that crap never gets into the pump or carby again.
    Also whilst not being the issue you have at the moment with the engine starving for fuel, but the Stromberg carby tops are prone to warp with age/heat etc., so its a good idea to give then a hone on a piece of fine emery paper on a sheet of glass.

    With regard to the vehicle "kangarooing" can we see some pics of the throttle linkage set up etc please?
    Also some pics of the engine mounts please?

    Is there any oil dripping from the bottom of the adapter plate?


    Cheers, Mick
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #12
    Join Date
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    Given that far more problems are ignition related rather than carburetor and fuel supply, have you checked for spark? Sufficient, happening at right time, etc.
    URSUSMAJOR

  3. #13
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    Adelaide SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    After you are satisfied the carby, fuel pump, and fuel lines are clean fit an in line filter between the fuel pump and fuel tank to ensure that crap never gets into the pump or carby again.
    Also whilst not being the issue you have at the moment with the engine starving for fuel, but the Stromberg carby tops are prone to warp with age/heat etc., so its a good idea to give then a hone on a piece of fine emery paper on a sheet of glass.

    With regard to the vehicle "kangarooing" can we see some pics of the throttle linkage set up etc please?
    Also some pics of the engine mounts please?

    Is there any oil dripping from the bottom of the adapter plate?


    Cheers, Mick
    So I've rebuilt the carby, including flattening all the surfaces- they were indeed warped. Reset the float level, which was way low. Fit new fuel line, fuel pump and inline filter. Ran alot better but would not rev past 2700, start missing etc. Reset timing which helped, but I suspect the plugs are needing a clean now.

    Have put new engine mounts on and checked all mounting bolts. Old ones were cactus. It uses the original LR mounts attached to a fabricated engine bracket.

    Will take some pics of throttle linkages. No oil leaking from adaptor plate.

  4. #14
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    Here's the pictures

  5. #15
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    When you shine a torch down the carbie does the lower damper (under choke) fully open with accelerator pedal at the end of its stroke/travel.....just a thought

    Cheers Paul

  6. #16
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    I'm not quite sure what you mean. The lower dumper?
    Quote Originally Posted by bemm52 View Post
    When you shine a torch down the carbie does the lower damper (under choke) fully open with accelerator pedal at the end of its stroke/travel.....just a thought

    Cheers Paul

  7. #17
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    Butterfly valve like the choke but operated by the linkages you posted.....mightn’t be opening fully perhaps due to miss adjustment of linkages......as I say just a thought

    Cheers Paul

  8. #18
    Join Date
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    So how does it actually run now that you have gone over the carby, does it run smooth, idle down low etc?
    The throttle linkages look ok, that long piece of flat that appears to be added/welded to part of the linkage
    assembly should give a longer pedal action/movement from idle to full throttle, hence better/smoother
    foot control. The spring up on the bulkhead bracket is an addition, and looks like it could be a bit strong,
    normally the return spring is on the other end of rod which runs across the bulkhead and is a much longer
    spring, which offers a much smoother and progressive throttle action.
    The engine mount rubbers look good enough from the pic, and judging by the fabricated steel engine mounts
    the conversion kit is a Johnson (Geelong) one. I assume you have run your eye over the rear mounts either
    side of the transfer case to make sure they are not knackered?

    Is it still "kangarooing" when you drive it?

    Good Luck.
    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Adelaide SA
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    Hey thanks Mick. It runs beautifully now. Smooth idle, revs well. Needed some timeing adjustments and idle setting. But......it doesn't return to idle after a good rev. I think the springs need a look at like you mention.
    That big spring doesn't really do anything during throttle movement. I can't work out what it's for. I'll try and post a pic tomorrow.

    I replaced a rusted out gearbox crossmember a few months back and put new rubber mounts on it at the same time.

    Haven't taken it for a drive since. Will do it tomorrow and report back

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Queensland
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pezwa83 View Post
    Hey thanks Mick. It runs beautifully now. Smooth idle, revs well. Needed some timeing adjustments and idle setting. But......it doesn't return to idle after a good rev. I think the springs need a look at like you mention.
    That big spring doesn't really do anything during throttle movement. I can't work out what it's for. I'll try and post a pic tomorrow.

    I replaced a rusted out gearbox crossmember a few months back and put new rubber mounts on it at the same time.

    Haven't taken it for a drive since. Will do it tomorrow and report back
    Hello Pezwa,

    Throttle return springs and Holden motors in Series vehicles - what fun!

    I have the opposite issue. The return spring is too tight - It is supposedly an OEM replacement. I have a red motor 202 with a hybrid mechanical linkage that joins onto a Bodgey Brothers ex-motor bike clutch cable secured to bits of angle iron with fencing wire. The end of the cable fits onto a Dell'Orto half-moon bolted to the carburettor. Adjustment is via pulling on the cable and tightening up a pinch bolt. There is absolutely no fine adjustment to counteract the force of the spring.

    I bought some new hand brake/clutch cable tension adjusters. The hollow bolt shape ones with a slot cut into it and a big knurled ring that takes up the slack in the cables. I just have to find what "safe place" I put them.

    Good luck with your carburettor fine tuning.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

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