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Thread: Holden Engine Expert/Mechanic Wanted - Sydney

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    Holden Engine Expert/Mechanic Wanted - Sydney

    I’ve tried everything to restart my Series 2A Holden Red 179 engine which was running previously but no longer so reaching out for help.

    Any Holden 6 engine experts out there or a mechanic with Holden experience looking for an hourly rate job? Based in Maroubra, Sydney
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    Holen Engine Expert/Mechanic Wanted - Sydney

    Any mechanic who’s worked on carby engines and knows what a set of points is will get it running quickly. If it’s getting fuel into the fuel bowl of the carby and there’s spark it should run - cam gear being shredded is a possibility as well - take the oil fill cap off the rocker cover and have someone crank the engine - if the rockers aren’t moving it’s that. Won’t have hurt anything as the valves clear the pistons when this happens so it’s just the rad out, front cover off and the cam comes out. Alloy gears are available to solve the issue but they make more noise than the fibre gear.
    Last edited by Homestar; 27th November 2023 at 09:41 AM.
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    Exclamation

    Thanks for the response bit unfortunately it's a little more complicated then that:-


    • It's got spark to all plugs (points all ok)
    • compression in all cylinders (around 145ps which is Ok as it's cold)
    • new crow cams lifters (all operating correctly)
    • new head gasket (it's got compression)
    • new inlet/exhaust gasket (sealed ports)
    • valves open/close as per firing order
    • re-con carby (was running previously)
    • engine turns over - compression/spark..
    • But...petrol just sits on the bottom of the inlet manifold
    • spark plugs remain dry


    So the old girl is not drawing fuel from the manifold...

    it's doing my head in!

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    Just wondering, dose it fire then stop running, if so. it could have a faulty ballast resister. Also have you checked the gasket between the inlet & exhaust manifold, if it blows you won't have any vacuum to suck the fuel from the carby, will just suck air.

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    First thing to check if the distributor is 180 out , The crank rotates twice for every rotation of the cam. When you checked TDC to see where number 1 was on the distributor cap did you check both valves were closed.

    Easy cheat to fix is just move each plug lead forward 3 positions on the distributor cap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    First thing to check if the distributor is 180 out , The crank rotates twice for every rotation of the cam. When you checked TDC to see where number 1 was on the distributor cap did you check both valves were closed.

    Easy cheat to fix is just move each plug lead forward 3 positions on the distributor cap.
    My initial thoughts, too.
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    Yeah - if it hasn't run since being put together I'd be checking dizzy timing first then cam timing. If those are right and there's fuel and spark it will at least fire even if the carb is way out of tune.

    Rocker cover off, set number 1 piston at TDC - use something down the spark plug hole like a dowel or screwdriver to confirm when the piston is at TDC not the timing marks as they can move on the balancer - worth checking this while you're at it, and see where every thing is sitting - something will be out.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    on the also ran category...

    even if the spark was 180 out youd be getting some kind of firing even if it was backfiring or firing out the exhuast and unless youre pumping the accelerator on every start effort fuel shouldnt be pooling in the manifold.

    you might have a sticking needle and seat in the carby and its flooding out, its worth cranking the engine over for 5-10 seconds then checking a plug to see if its wet.
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    Have you taken the cap off to make sure the dizzy is turning?
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    I have been pondering this situation since the other day, if the engine has spark and the timing is correct as you say along with having compression, it means that the valves are operating as designed and the spark is going to the plugs. So from this it leaves only the carburettor that may not be functioning correctly, may I suggest remove air filter then with assistance try to start the motor but have your hand over the top of the carburettor effectively blocking air and forcing the engine to draw fuel from the carburettor. This will prove if you are getting sufficient suction, the reason I say to do this is to choke the motor and make it draw fuel into the cylinders. It may fire when doing this, if not after you have wound it over a couple of times stop remove plugs and see if they are wet. If not I would check carburettor for plugged galleries, I know you have stated the fuel just sits in the manifold but that may be just from the accelerator pump and not the main jet meaning there is insufficient fuel going to the cylinder to allow the engine to run.
    Just a thought hope you find the answers.

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