Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 28

Thread: Hand cranking a Holden 186

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    serpintine wa
    Posts
    1,522
    Total Downloaded
    0
    yep had to do it regualy when i was living in qld once warm it was easy when cold we useto loosen of acopple of the glow plugs

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I do it by inserting washers under the exhaust valve rockers (stops them from closing completly) on 3 of the cylinders then leaving the glow plugs on while I crank it over with the hand throttle set.

    While Im doing that I have the propane torch heating the inlet manifold.

    when it catches on the one cylinder you just pull the wire tabs on the washers to get the valves to operate normally then put the rocker cover back on.

    Its no fun but its doable if you have to.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Narrogin WA
    Posts
    3,092
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    I'm surprised that anyone fitted the cranking dog to the Holden engine in the first place!

    Diana
    If starting is all that is required, I see your point; however; don't forget that a starting handle is extremely useful when: setting the points; setting the valve clearances; moving an immobilised car short distances (remove the spark plugs and leave in top gear),

    Cheers Charlie

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    267
    Total Downloaded
    0

    other uses for a crank handle

    I had a crank handle on my old rangie. I never attempted to start it 'tho.
    It was very useful for setting the timing.
    I even used it to get out of a nasty bog- took out the plugs and wound it out in reverse/ LR.

    My Stage 1 series 3 Isuzu has the spot in the grille for the handle. There isnt (of course) the dog on the crank pulley 'tho. That would be interesting to crank start (olympic sport).

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,902
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Smile

    Many years ago I had a Suzuki Two Stroke 540cc 4WD and it could be hand started by jacking one rear wheel off the ground and then giving the wheel a flick whilst the vehicle was in top gear. They jump around a bit on the jack, but if you are stuck out in the bush it's better than a long walk home. Wouldn't want the "Worksafe" man looking over your shoulder though.

    Mick

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    The Grampians
    Posts
    308
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Mick,

    Someone was telling me more about this technique just the other day. Do you know any more details? You only need one wheel off the ground? I suppose that would depend on your diff. And then it's a quick run around to the clutch before it slips off the jack...

    What I really want to know is apart from the obvious safety concern of vehicle slipping off jack or axel stands is it realatively safe?
    Reuben - I don't have a life I have a Land Rover

    SIII 'Blue Bertha'

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    East-South-East Girt-By-Sea
    Posts
    17,662
    Total Downloaded
    1.20 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by reubsrover View Post
    Hi Mick,
    <snip>
    What I really want to know is apart from the obvious safety concern of vehicle slipping off jack or axel stands is it realatively safe?
    It's best done with someone in the drivers seat and no it's not safe as you can lose fingers and break arms etc if they get caught by the wheel kicking back or the engine starting with your arms still on the wheel.

    It is far better to push start the vehicle.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  8. #18
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Veryan View Post
    Ok, dont mean to confuse you even more...but when I was round at Lieutenant Rovers joint, we successfully crank started his S2a...he showed me a trick or two...

    1; Give the accelerator a few dabs to get some fresh fuel into the carbie
    2; Keep thumbs outside,
    3; We did pushed it over, until you could feel it compressing, and then...
    4...gave it a good push....

    Im sure this would work the same as if you pulled it....

    Now...anyone game enough to have tried crank starting a 2.25 Diesel? 23:1 compression ratio??!!! Is there any way of reducing the compression to start one on the handle???
    Pushing on a crankhandle is very dangerous, as if the engine kicks, it is almost certain to break bones. If it kicks while pulling, and with the thumb on the same side of the handle as the fingers, it will simply pull out of your hand, at the very worst losing a bit of skin. If pushing, and it kicks, with your arm braced straight and your weight behind it, you can expect that the sudden lack of resistance when your wrist or arm breaks is likely to see your face coming in unpleasantly close contact with the crank handle as you fall forward into it.

    The first fifty years or so of motoring, when crank starting was commonplace saw many such incidents, and led to the rule to never push on the crankhandle.

    As an aside, the owners manual for the Cadillac V16 of the early thirties allegedly read "A starting handle is not provided, as it is impractical to turn this engine by hand".

    Series 3 Landrovers would seem to be among the last production cars to come with a crankhandle, which, as pointed out, are useful for other things than starting.

    Having learnt to drive on a Ford T, I was taught crank starting as part of my initial driver education when I was about twelve.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    The Grampians
    Posts
    308
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    It's best done with someone in the drivers seat and no it's not safe as you can lose fingers and break arms etc if they get caught by the wheel kicking back or the engine starting with your arms still on the wheel.

    It is far better to push start the vehicle.

    Yes I'd think all other options should be exhausted first but stuck somewhere where push starting is impossible (sand) out in the middle of nowhere it'd be nice to be able to get the vehicle going anyway possible.

    So if you're stuck in valley (push starting impossible) miles from help, battery's dead, and you need help fast is this your last option to get the car going?
    Reuben - I don't have a life I have a Land Rover

    SIII 'Blue Bertha'

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,902
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well...How Safe is Safe?
    Every time you drive out the front gate do you really know if you are going to make it back alive or, in one piece......the roads are a "warzone"
    so we risk our life every day.
    Like I said its an emergency starting strategy than can be applied when other options like towing, jump starting, pushing or cranking are not available. A hand throttle or even manual choke are a bonus to to just sneak the idle speed up a touch so the vehicle doesn't chug and rock around so much...remember it's in top gear. As for how many wheels you have to jack off the ground, well that depends on the type of differential fitted to the vehicle.

    cheers, Mick
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!