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Thread: Iveco Daily 4x4

  1. #121
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    Fitted the off road wheels today.




    I decided on Federal Couragia M/T 35x12.5R17 basically because they were the only 125Q Rated tyres I could find in stock in Australia, They are 10 Ply rated.

    I mounted the tyres onto the rims myself , not so much as to safe a few $$ but just to make sure I could fit them myself incase I need to do it trackside. I'll be carrying a spare carcass. I used Truck Tyre balance beads inside the tyre instead of wheel weights, so no need to visit a tyre dealer.

    What I was suprised at was that there is no taper on the wheel stud / nuts, the stud holes are a few mm larger than the studs, I dont understand how the wheels don't move once mounted.



    check how thick the discs are, the track rod is massive, as thick as my wrist


    I had to cut the plastic splash guard on the dotted line to stop the tyre rubbing on full lock, Also note the length of the brake hose, allows for some massive wheel travel


    Anyone need any 9.5 R17.5 Michelin X road rubber ??

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    Fitted the off road wheels today.

    What I was suprised at was that there is no taper on the wheel stud / nuts, the stud holes are a few mm larger than the studs, I dont understand how the wheels don't move once mounted.


    Wheels are centred / located on the hub and not by the studs. The studs / nuts are there only to hold the wheel securely onto the hub.

    Not an uncommon practice.

    Now if you had non-original rims and the hole in the centre of the rims was slightly larger than the originals - you would have a problem.

    It's starting to look like a purposeful beast.
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post
    Wheels are centred / located on the hub and not by the studs. The studs / nuts are there only to hold the wheel securely onto the hub.

    Not an uncommon practice.

    Now if you had non-original rims and the hole in the centre of the rims was slightly larger than the originals - you would have a problem.

    It's starting to look like a purposeful beast.
    correctamundo, tdci ford transit are the same

    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #124
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    This jigger was at my work in August. Can't remember what it was in for.Not a bad setup from memory.
    Not sure why they told you it was such a long wait for one. We had one on the floor at that time.
    GB, if you need anything for it, give me a call and i will look after you.
    Cheers
    Todd

    QUOTE=James;1985518]A few years ago there was a left hand drive Bremach T-Rex touring Australia.
    It had been had fitted with a very good insulated panel camper box.

    There is some information about the build on Oliver Reinhard's website.
    If I remember correctly he put quite a lot of effort into mounting the box to the chassis with some custom silent blocks.

    It looked to be a very good setup.

    https://sites.google.com/site/oliver...peditionsmobil[/QUOTE]

  5. #125
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    Looks a lot more "balanced" with the bigger wheels. Coming along nicely.

    Range Rover rims are the same idea, with the weight being taken by the hub centre (as well as being accurately located in the centre of the hub), and the wheel nuts just there to stop it falling off.

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by spudboy View Post
    Looks a lot more "balanced" with the bigger wheels. Coming along nicely.

    Range Rover rims are the same idea, with the weight being taken by the hub centre (as well as being accurately located in the centre of the hub), and the wheel nuts just there to stop it falling off.
    Actually the wheel nuts are there to provide the clamp load which provides enough friction to supply drive, braking and carry all the load. The hub centre is there for initial alignment and for gross overloads or when the wheel nuts aren't done up enough.

  7. #127
    Davehoos Guest
    the wheel nuts do come off.

    you need to install the nuts correctly then check often.
    the old UD trucks with dual on the left side often come loose-not the front single.

    if they come loose the hub surface is damaged and you can never keep these tight.

    some of the Isuzu trucks with alloy rims had warning label on the windscreen how to tension the nuts and the drivers carried tension wrench-then check every 50KM--but is that EVERY 50Km forever.

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davehoos View Post
    the wheel nuts do come off.

    you need to install the nuts correctly then check often.
    the old UD trucks with dual on the left side often come loose-not the front single.

    if they come loose the hub surface is damaged and you can never keep these tight.

    some of the Isuzu trucks with alloy rims had warning label on the windscreen how to tension the nuts and the drivers carried tension wrench-then check every 50KM--but is that EVERY 50Km forever.
    Thanks, the wheel nuts were not all that tight when I undid them.
    I'll get some checkpoint wheel nut indicators just to be sure.


  9. #129
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    doing a bit more reading of the owners manual, suprised to read about the clutch "reservoir cover must not be removed, assembly is maintenance free"

    the master cylinder appears to be polycarbonate


  10. #130
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    That is correct. DO NOT under any circumstances open that cap. It is a sealed cicuit and when bought comes with the master cylinder, slave and pipe that joins them. I have lost count of the kits I have sold because someone, usually amechanic servicing it opens the cap. If you look at the cap it tells you not to touch it.
    Cheers
    Todd

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