Thread: LOWER BALL JOINT ISSUES

Originally Posted by roamer

Hi Graeme,
My D4 rattled and clunked, most noticable on dirt roads,from new.
Dealer finally changed ball joints and all is good now,but when they did ball joints, found that the left shocky assy was really stiff and hard, so replaced that as well.

One tick for Pacific LR,

Especially since I'd done the GRR and Gregory NP prior.

The bushes on mine have been assessed as needing replacing and the dealer is sure the ball joints will need replacing too. Mine don't have the excuse of having been anywhere other than my driveway.

Had all 4 lower arms replaced on my RRS last week, along with the anti roll bar bushes front & rear. Removing the rear arms also meant cutting off the drop links as they were seized, so they ended up being replaced as well.

The silence is fantastic

My rant for the day is with Land Rover. Use some bloody anti seize compound on bolts that are designed to be moved ffs (ie the camber bolts). Every bolt was seized solid and required the heavy use of the number 1 persuading stick wielded by a 25 stone man. Said persuading stick was also needed on the n/s cv joint to get it out of the hub, again a completely dry joint. So that got replaced as well

Interesting comment from the alignment place about the camber bolts, normally they can spend anything from 3-8 hours unseizing them so the suspension can be re-aligned. 8 hours !!!! Just buy new ones and hammer the old ones out, it didn't take 8 hours to change all the arms !!

Anyway, that's the first job of many completed.

Costs were as follows:

2 x OEM lower rear arms £182
2 x OEM lower front arms £240
2 x OEM rear drop links £48
Front & rear OEM anti roll bar bushes £42
1 x CV joint £75
1 x full set of bolts £70
1 x upper rear bush £28
1 x rear wheel bearing £46
10 hours labour
3 hours to re-align suspension.

1 x empty wallet