Thread: Drawer System

Hi Rich

I should have consulted you before I made the drawers! With a new build, then, it would be quite simple to make the centre divider in two pieces, with a 100mm or so gap where the socket extension goes through and then saw a hole in the top and bottom of the drawer case. It would be simple enough to find some sort of round plug that would fit in the top hole.You would still need to pull the drawers out to get the socket through but that is no hardship.

Now I just need to work out how to modify mine to suit!

Thanks.

Al

About "marine" ply. As a marine surveyor, this is a subject I know something about. Unles you are building the actual outside shell of a boat hull, do not waste money on BS1088 grade marine ply. It is the very best grade but Austral plywood in Australia make an exterior grade plywood in Hoop pine that is virtually identical to their marine ply. The only differences are that the marine has two A grade faces vs an "A" and "C" grade face, slightly thicker outer veneers and has less core gaps. The Austral exterior grade hoop pine is expensive comparted to CD radiata pine construction ply but is a very good product and is a lot cheaper than the marine grade.

Cheers

Al

Hi Al
Thanks for all the good info on your drawers. I am going to make them for my new D4.
Steve

Originally Posted by NauticAl

I have had a couple of requests for some dimensions, so I have drawn up a couple of sketches of how the drawers go together.

Cheers

Al

Thanks Al,

Not sure where the "THANKS" tab has gone from the bottom of the posts but I am sure you would have got plenty.

George

No problem - I have learned an enormous amount from everyone else by reading through all the D3/D4 threads - I am glad to be able to contribute something back.

Cheers

Al

Heh Al,
Just a question about your drawer box:
You have dimensioned some wedges that are underneath the actual box.
I can understand that they need to be there for clearance but do you have them angled for a reason?
Or is that just to assist the drawers staying in?
Thanks
Rich

Hi Rich

You have caught me out! When I first fitted them, I only had the 20mm timber rails and the drawers just caught on the edge of the plastic trim strip on the tailgate. On close examination, there is an apparent slope between the floor and the sides in the back, and fitting the wedges fixed the clearance issue and also lessened the visual angle difference. You probably don't need to have them tapered but if you don't, they will need to be a bit higher (maybe 50mm from the bottom edge of the actual drawer to the floor of the car) to achieve the same clearance. The wedges actually makes the whole thing look more level. If you put them in from the start, rather that a retro fix like I did, they wont be hard to do. If you start with 2 pieces of wood, then even if you are using a jig saw, the rough cut edge can be glued to the case, and the finished edges will be down.

Cheers

Al

Thanks Al,
Yeah as soon as you put the bare box in you can see the angle the floor is. Sloping down quite substantially to the back of the car.
I have decided to do the nautical thing Al as you may notice from the photo
Just like I used to do with frames! This material in the base served no purpose and makes it lighter to lift out and carry. If you wished you could remove the additional seats underneath for more storage.

Work in progress:



I have angled the tie downs at an approximate angle of 40 degrees, the one at the front of the drawers is angled towards the back of the car and the one at the back of the drawers in angled toward the front of the car. This gives more stability against any lateral movement.


My side infills are a different shape to yours Al, they step back square at the first step from the back of the car.