May be a sensor problem at that wheel, not expensive if that's the case.
 TopicToaster
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Noticed on the weekend that the front driver's side seemed to be lower than the passenger side. Measured a diff of 20mm at the front wheel arches this morning. Rear seems fine.
The diff remains regardless of being parked, driving, etc. The car still goes up and down as normal, will go into off road height, no alarms, warnings or noises.
Any ideas?
Cheers.
 ChatterBox
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						May be a sensor problem at that wheel, not expensive if that's the case.
RichardK
Series IV Matrix Offroad Camper following our Discovery 3 with E Diff, BAS Remap, Mitch Hitch, Uniden UHF, Codan NGT HF, Masten TPMS, Proquip Compressor Guard, ARB Winch Bar, Milemarker Hydraulic Winch, 4x4 Intelligence Rear Wheel Carrier, VMS GPS with Rear Camera,
 ChatterBox
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Heightsensor is most likely but could be an iisue with the wiring to that sensor, check the wiring before changing the sensor.
A height calibrtaion may sort it anyway.
If you have the Nav setup with the 4x4 wheel display, sometimes you can get an idea of where the problem is.
Since if sounds like it is only one corner, if you have the display, then when you drive about, keep an eye on what the display shows the trouble corner doing relative to the other wheels.
The trouble wheel may display as either frozen in place or really be bouncing up and down while the other three wheels just sort of bobble about the mid position. I note that all the real wheels, (including the trouble wheel), are in reality, rolling properly; just the display and computers think otherwise.
No wheel movement at all suggests a wiring problem; jumping up and down, a sensor and or wiring problem, and if the wheel behaves as the other three, then probably you have an air leak somewhere.
The somewhere could be (a) the rubber air spring, (b) the 6mm plastic tubing and or Voss connectors between the air spring and the valve block, or (c), internally inside the valve block.
If it is a leak, finding them, (note, not it), is a real trial and error thing and I do not know any easy way; nor does your dealer I would think. The guys here on the Board know the various tricks however, and for what it is worth, if there is a leak, there may be two, so if you do find one, don't celebrate just yet.
Something you might also do is disconnect the negative battery cable for overnight. Among other things, disconnecting the battery kills the air suspension computer, and more importantly, the auto level program that can open air valves in the dark hours after you have gone to bed. You never really know what the 3 is up to, (or is it down?), long after the engine is shut down. If there is no lowering overnight with the battery disconnected, that tends to eliminate the air spring and air lines, and perhaps even the valve block.
As such, you could then be back to wiring/sensors which the dealers can sometimes figure out with their T4 setup.
 TopicToaster
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						$209 later (Including loan car) its fixed. Was an adjustment issue apparently, nothing broken or worn out.
FYI Allianz extended warranty does not cover adjustments, just broken bits and the labour associated with them. Fair enough I suppose.
You should have wacked it with a stick ..............
You need some $99 adjustable rods
 TopicToaster
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
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