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Thread: ZF Auto trans aftermarket steel pan and filter

  1. #1
    d3viate Guest

    ZF Auto trans aftermarket steel pan and filter

    Hi, Has anybody fitted the ZF replacement Transmission pan with filter and had any problems with the LandRover warranty/service people ?.
    I understand it will only be a problem if it is found that "the pan" is at fault but what has been LandRover's response for anybody who has done this change to the "sealed for life" trans ?.
    Common sense says it's an improvement for the transmissions life but common sense is as rare as an honest politician.
    I have contacted ZF directly but not much indication in the reply as to what LandRover thinks of ZF's non OEM pan being fitted.
    Experienced feedback much appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by d3viate View Post
    I understand it will only be a problem if it is found that "the pan" is at fault
    That is the legal situation.
    The risk is that if LR want to be a PITA over it then they can.
    LR when compared to other manufacturers are quite good about warranty claims.

    But if then that is the case then ZF have an issue as they made the pan for the transmission.

  3. #3
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    D3viate,
    I've fitted the what you refer to as the "non OEM" part, as as as I'm aware this is a ZF component and not something somebody dreamt up in a garage somewhere, mine had a genuine ZF part number on it. So if by non OEM part you mean the pan isn't the one fitted by LR you are right, the gearbox is made by ZF so they are the OEM and this as far as I'm aware is a genuine ZF part. The only down side I can see here is the steel pan doesn't have any fins on it so by installing the steel pan behind the transmission cover you might have the gearbox running a bit warmer than normal, I don't know as yet. The gearbox does have a temp sensor that triggers the gearbox to optimise the right gear to keep the temp within limits if the oil gets to hot , if the temp goes out side these limits then the gearbox goes into limp mode as far as I'm aware anyway.
    It's a choice thing, if you want to fit the steel pan and move into the world of replaceable filters and fresh oil every 90 to 100 k then step on board. If you want to stick with the LR pan and the sealed for life thing then that's got to be good as well. If the gearbox craps itself and you've got a steel pan on I could see LR doing their level best to get out of the claim.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nomad9 View Post
    D3viate,
    The only down side I can see here is the steel pan doesn't have any fins on it so by installing the steel pan behind the transmission cover you might have the gearbox running a bit warmer than normal, I don't know as yet.
    I think the steel pan will probably conduct heat better even without the fins. The OEM pan is plastic so the fins are just there to look good, they don't conduct any heat.
    If you are worried about overheating you are better putting a bigger oil cooler in front of the radiator.

  5. #5
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    Hi CaverD3,
    I suspect you 100% correct, steel does conduct heat better, I thought about this a bit more after I posted the reply. Me I'm not worried about over heating the transmission at all. If anything does happen then yes I'll look at a bigger cooler as you suggest. I know what you are saying about the fins, the fins do increase the surface area of the pan, how much this improves the cooling efficiency if anything, unsure.....

  6. #6
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    I'm completely ignorant to autos so apologies if these are dumb questions...

    Why would I replace the pan? What does it do? Is it like the sump of an engine?

    What symptoms would make you want to change the pan \ oil?
    06 SE V6 Discovery 3

  7. #7
    Rockylizard Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by djhampson View Post
    I'm completely ignorant to autos so apologies if these are dumb questions...

    Why would I replace the pan? What does it do? Is it like the sump of an engine?

    What symptoms would make you want to change the pan \ oil?
    Gday...
    I am ignorant of D3 Autos ... and would also love to know the answers to the above (dumb?) questions.
    Cheers

    John

  8. #8
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    I think the original fitment pan is plastic and is destroyed when removed.

    It is basically the sump which holds the transmission oil.

    You should change the oil and filter regularly, just like you do with an engine.
    The long service interval given by LR is not realistic for good transmission life, particularly in harsh conditions (heat, dust, towing, etc).

  9. #9
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    The original pan in the D3 requires the crossmember to be undone and one engine mount undone in order to remove the pan and change the filter.

    The steel pan was developed for the falcon transmission because the plastic one was was easily damaged.
    The advantage for the D3 is you can undo the original pan and rip out the OEM filter without undoing the engine mount. The steel pan just slots in with the new filter. All subequent changes are easier and quicker, especially if you need to do another change to flush the ATF and change the filter.
    Also less prone to damage and better cooling due to heat conduction through the steel. Plastic fins are only there to make the pan look the part. An aluminium pan with cooling fins would be ideal.

  10. #10
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    Sump pan before and after

    HI DJHampson,
    The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. I've learnt that. CaverD3 has covered all the good bits, I think it was Mr Sniegy who pointed me in the right direction when it came to steel sump pans, steep learning curve but well worth it I believe. I bought a set of allen key style torx spanners to make the removal and replacement of the screwsa bit easier. Not sure if you caught the discussion about sealed for life and what that means, sealed for life is in reality "sealed for the life of the warranty" not your life or the vehicles. I started looking into this after someone mentioned a slight shudder in the gearbox when taking off. I had a slight shudder once when taking off with my camper trailer on, plus my klms seemed to add up to the sort of time others were talking about maybe time to change the oil being the 90 to 120 k mark.
    I asked what I felt was a dumb question about changing the fuel filter at the weekend, I was off in invention mode trying to figure out a better way to bleed the system off, turns out you don't need to, works for me.
    Check out my new sump pan in the thumbnail, bit of a dodgy picture but I'm sure you'll get the drift. I hope they come out.

    2010 06 26_0209.jpg

    2010 06 26_0223.jpg

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