Thread: ZF Auto trans aftermarket steel pan and filter

They might change their view if they learned that the LR dealers here charge about $1,500.00 to $2,000.00 to change the transmission oil and install a new plastic pan/filter combo.

The dealer here will only use the LR sourced oil etc and will not install the metal pan - you have to do that yourself or find an independent who can spell ZF.

The $CDN 1,500.00 to $2,000.00 number is definitely not a myth - that I think your dealers could comprehend and probably get them thinking of the possibilities should the myth be dispelled.

Given that all dealers know that the trannys cannot be repaired but must be exchanged, you might point out that LR would not have the oil or the pans available in parts if either was never changed.

Capitalism eventually prevails over Witchcraft or Tradecraft.

Originally Posted by vbrab

I started with a 20L drum of trans fluid and by the time I had drained what I could and then flushed through until it at least looked a bit cleaner, I had about 6 litres left in the drum.
When the vehicle was in the dealers, I asked them to do the fliud change and they told me that it was an "internet myth" that the fluid ever needed changing.

Gday VBRAB,

How did you do the flushing you speak of ?

will do mine soon so would be a good thing to do, but with only 70,000ks will be interesting to see the colour of the oil that comes out.

Cheers Ean

Internet myth , my ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here in Africa, we tow a lot in high ambient temperatures, and dusty conditions like you guys down under.

In Europe , they travel on bitumen roads, low ambient temperatures, hardly ever tows , dust ? what is dust.

According to the ZF agents in Johannesburg, the sealed for life is an European standard, so that ZF can claim they don't have any oil spillage or waste of old oil.The technician told me do not exceed 100 000km without an oil and filter change. Discard the plastic sump for a steel sump, because of filter change will be easier.You cannot expect a gearbox to be sealed for life.

Now the ELUSIVE Shell 1375.4 oil has also a new Castrol equivalent , see the following spec sheet. Interesting look at BMW,Jaguar, Land Rover.
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s_ImportMV.pdf

Originally Posted by KOOS BEST

Now the ELUSIVE Shell 1375.4 oil has also a new Castrol equivalent , see the following spec sheet. Interesting look at BMW,Jaguar, Land Rover.
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s_ImportMV.pdf

Interesting to see in one place, that both the Jag and LR ATF are the same Shell number. As this has always been the case, my local dealer uses the Jag part number oil rather than the LR part number oil as Land Rover charges him less for the Jag oil than the LR part number oil.

I much appreciate the Castrol sheet. The ZF six speed in our 3's has been around long enough that the mystery surrounding them should be over. The awe and internet myths should be with the 8 speed by now.

THIS MAY NOT BE HOW THE BEST ADVICE SUGGESTS TO DO IT, but it is how I did it.
After re-fitting new pan and filter, before starting engine, I pumped enough fluid into trans till it ran out of inlet hole. (probably about 5-6 litres). Screwed plug back in finger tight.
Then I located the "out" trans pipe/hose as it connects to the passenger side of the radiator (top small hose), undid that and pulled it down so it was hanging out front below my bumper and put a large catch tray under it. Then I started motor for about 30 seconds and about 1.5 litres pumped out (black), then I pumped more oil back in until it ran out hole (plug in again). Start motor pump out another 1.5 litres, stop repeat process 3-4 times until what is coming out looks a bit cleaner. put hose back on radiator, top up, run in park and through all gears, check and top up, then around teh block and if not hot check and top up again. A week later (this morning) I have been out again and checked and found it took about another pint (450mls).
My caution in saying this is how I did it, was that I didn't start and run the car before undoing the "out" pipe, and there was apossibility that the box might have starved for oil (I just don't know). My thinking was that it would pick up from the 5-6 litres I had pumped in and would pump straight through flushing , and as long as I stopped after 1.5 litres ran out damage was unlikley. I doubt there would be damage as one service agent says he drops the pan and then runs the car for 5 seconds to let torque convertor pump out, before attempting re-fill. I figure that is more likley to end up with "dry" components. Use my directions at own risk, regards, vbrab

Originally Posted by vbrab

run in park and through all gears, check and top up, then around teh block and if not hot check and top up again. A week later (this morning) I have been out again and checked and found it took about another pint (450mls).
vbrab

Did you check the final oil level with its temp between 35 and 50 degrees?? (I appreciate the air temp might be above 35 where you are at the moment)

If you tested checked it when cold (less than 35 degrees) and topped it up till it ran out the fill hole then the gearbox will be over filled.

Garry

It really makes me wonder - why hasn't some of the auto service shops purchased the "megaflush" equipment - which they have in the UK. This uses a similar process to vbrab's process - but also pumps clean fluid into the auto while running. There are so many Fords and other cars with these ZF boxes - I can only assume ignorance is bliss.

Originally Posted by vbrab

THIS MAY NOT BE HOW THE BEST ADVICE SUGGESTS TO DO IT, but it is how I did it.

Its my intention to change the oil the Saab way too when the time comes as the oil flow from the converter to the cooler then back to the sump is the same. Its wastes a lot less oil than double-flushing.