Thread: Air off Kit

Only warranty issue is the same as any other after market mod. LR can refuse a claim if the modification has caused the fault.
Is useful for single tyre re-inflation but can be funny with all four from low pressures as I have had suspension faults when using it. But at other times it has done all four with no fault.
I found it most useful with a slow leak just kept stopping to pump up until I got home when I could get it fixed.

Discojools

Their system is quite expensive & runs the risk of warranty implications.

I have just fitted an ARB in car compressor that was both cheap, easily fitted & easy to use.

Regards

Chuck

Given the 80K lifespan of the air suspension compressor and the $800.00 replacement cost it makes an ARB unit cheap in comparison as well as being better performing.
Regards,
Tote

With thanks to CaverD3, I decided instead to install what I call an "air in" kit on the end of the factory underside air tank on my 3.

I do not normally have a need for tyre air, but with the experience of one air compressor replacement already, the ability to push air into the tank seemed like a good idea as then perhaps I could fool the system enough to raise the 3 back to normal height before I pulled the fuses to keep it there.

As below, I have posted pictures in my gallery along with a parts list.

Have you tried it in anger yet?

I suppose it would depend on what the fault was.

I have not been down to the stops yet again fortunately.

I have also learned that if I have a problem, only to play with the up function, and forget the down.

When cold weather hits, I tend to have intermittent failures of the air system controls, (or something), but have learned just to ignore them and for certain not fool with the down switch.

Primarily, I use the silippery roads and rutted roads settings in the winter here; the down function is only for access and I try to avoid getting high centered in the ruts so as not to need the high setting.

I do use the Schrader valve however to check tank air pressure to see if the compressor is working - usually runs around 210 psig (14 bar).

My biggest problem with the install was the air seal between the big bung and the tank thread. The Land Rover fitting that I removed has a real good O ring set up whereas the metric/SAE adapter fitting I purchased relied on thread dope which I used vary sparingly as I did not want any inside the air tank. The seal that I purchased worked better as a washer than as a seal.

I would have liked to run a 6mm plastic air line off the tank to somewhere convenient however I have to worry about ice chunks freezing on to whatever underneath or kicking up off the road so the less there is to be knocked about, is better.

In the last two weeks here, we had a blizzard with about 50 cm of snow and -35C, followed by rain and +5, and then back down to -25C again. Firetrucks were hung up; Hummers were crosswise in the streets; even my 3 was being thrown about from the rutting. All this is preferably to what I have seen on TV in Oz - now that is not something you can just ride out.

Hi , pse inform me , with this "air in kit" can you pump up the suspension with an auxillary compressor if the onboard one packs up?
If so how do you do it ?
Regards
Koos

Didn't "Graeme" or one of the other D3`regulars recently put up a post about having compressor problems and using an external compressor to be pump up the system to at least get it up off the stops to onroad height.

He spiced in a "plug" near the compressor.

As I understand it, the system needs to get up to about 400psi to push the car right up and all freely available 4wd and garage compressors can only manage about 150psi - not enough to get up to hi offroad levels but about enough to get you home at onroad height if the car compressor fails.

Garry