Thread: Alternator Capacity

Plenty of people will be interested but I think you would be better in the markets section not the firing range

Hi All

"At the end of the drive, turn your motor off and see if you still have a high current flow between the batteries".[/QUOTE]

Yes, still had a high current flow, (actual amount not measured yet and sparks are scarey near charging batteries !!! ).

Originally Posted by drivesafe

"Hi Arthur, unless the old battery is actually stuffed and not holding a charge, then there should be no reason for a high current discharge from your new to your old other than that you have a low charged old battery, note not stuffed just low charged".

The old battery is near its end of working life, the physical sign of this is that the cells are gassing before getting the measurement of 13.6 volts at the terminals. ( using a Fluke 73 multimeter )

"As to the Isolator being hot, it’s quite common for isolators and the adjoining cable ( the cable acts as a heat sink ) to be so hot you can’t hold them, so unless the isolator looked like it was about to melt, all should be fine".[/QUOTE]

Was warm to touch, first thing in the morning, before starting the motor!

"If you want to play safe, leave the set up disconnected until you know you are going to be doing a longish drive, then connect everything up and let your alternator supply the current being pulled through the isolator so your cranking battery is not supplying any current".[/QUOTE]

Could do, but I am going to add another 10 amp relay to control the voltage source to the 'smarts' on the isolator, first operated by a switch near the volt meter on the dash and then wired to an accessory terminal controlled from the ignition switch.
The original 200 amp relay I will be replacing with another relay as I suspect is faulty from new and the contacts are possibly sticking.

Now, to look again at the original question that 640 Newton asked.

"Could someone please educate me on how much power the alternator on a TDV8 RRS can generate? How do I know if I am putting too much load on the alternator?".[/QUOTE]

If He asked, How do I know if I am putting too much load on the battery, The whole response in this thread would made a lot more sense.

Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by Braddo

G'day guys, this is my first post so please be gentle with me. I read with interest the debate on automotive electrics. Gee some of you blokes get on your horse at the drop of a hat don't you. That Drivesafe dude smacked Wilber around like a red-headed step son. I'm glad I don't bring Blknight's sixteen year old daughter home late. He goes like a hungry Staffy on a bone. I love it!

Mate thats cause I'm really good at differentiating between actual facts and marketing wankspeak. Couple that with my natural tendancy to fight stupid with sarcasm, you get the idea.

IF I had a 16yo Daughter, you wouldn't get the chance to return her late, I'd already be hunting you down.

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

If He asked, How do I know if I am putting too much load on the battery, The whole response in this thread would made a lot more sense.

Cheers Arthur

I appreciate that would have been an easier question to answer, but that is not the area of concern that I have/had. My concern was not around whether I was getting excess/sufficient/insufficient charge to the batteries, it was more a concern that the alternator would not be able to cope with charging 4 batteries plus a number of other electrical accessories.

Correctly or incorrectly I have operated under the assumption that the auto electricians who installed the dual battery system in my RRS have installed an appropriate system to charge and maintain the batteries correctly (this work was done by a Sydney based Land Rover specialist).

I have also assumed that the auto electrician who installed the dual battery system and associated Anderson plug for my camper trailer have done so on the basis that it is the most appropriate for my vehicle based on the existing setup (this work was done by a specialist who installs the electrics for this particular brand of camper trailer day-in, day-out).

Having read the various responses in this thread, I "think" I have drawn the conclusion that the alternator is up to the job. However, it again raises some doubts in my mind about whether auto electricians simply install solution X because that is what they sell (and get paid for) or whether they take the time to assess and install the most appropriate solution based on the clients particular needs.

Originally Posted by 640Newton

However, it again raises some doubts in my mind about whether auto electricians simply install solution X because that is what they sell (and get paid for) or whether they take the time to assess and install the most appropriate solution based on the clients particular needs.

I think that this discussion shows the value of the Forum. Certainly in Canada, a Land Rover is so obscure that even with the dealer, one sometimes wonders.

With modifications, or anything not in the Land Rover option book, I think one best have a good idea of the results one would like to see and then canvas about the various shops as to how they would do whatever. The guy that sounds closest to what you think should be done becomes the guy to chance.

Later this week, I am having a transmission filter / oil change done. My dealer is good, but $2,000.00 for a oil filter etc, (shop rates and all), is not much fun. As such, I spent a couple of weeks talking to various transmission shops. Bottom line, I found a place that knows the 3's tranny is similar to a 2005/6 Lincoln Navigator SUV, and better yet, one of their off shore shop persons is a Land Rover guy - hence they will not try to prove I would have been better off with a Toyota.

And yes, with any shop, and any problem, you will most likely get the solution that they are most familiar with, which just might work out for you too - hence the need for the Forum.

I have the Traxide dual battery system in my 3 and choose it as at least they understand Land Rover, (certainly more than I do); as to the 4, well even more so, at that charging system is so different as to be virtually unknown here in North America, (and perhaps elsewhere).

Just a related question is the traxide unit the only dual battery setup that LR will accept while the car is under warranty?

Originally Posted by Wilbur

Candidly it is none of your business. I offer knowledge, take it or leave it. Unlike other contributors, I have invited anyone reading my post to check with other experts.
SNIP
I simply do not understand what is going on here. I offer knowledge that unfortunately conflicts with the forum guru, and you are all too thick-headed to even try to find out who is telling the truth. SNIP

Hi Wilbur,
As I stated in my previous post, "I look forward to your reply".

Unfortunately, your reply is not unexpected.

You were the one to offer your qualifications in order to validate your argument. On that basis, it is reasonable to ask what those qualifications are. (It is interesting that I can remember only two occasions when people have used their quals. in order to support an argument. In both cases, the person said they were an "electronics engineer" (or have you also done this on another thread?).)

Regrettably, I think that your credibility is approaching zero with many people reading this thread (and the wider forum?).

Oh dear,
Peter

Originally Posted by THE BOOGER

Just a related question is the Traxide unit the only dual battery setup that LR will accept while the car is under warranty?

I think that may be so with the D4 but verification is best left to one of the Australians here on the Forum.

With my LR3, it was the only controller I would chance given that so little is known about Land Rovers in the New World. In fairness however, the 3's electrical system is fairly common so most other multiple battery controller units will not actually destroy the 3's electrical; they just will not split the charging perhaps as well as could be desired.

That brand with the display with all the lights had appeal, but I decided that I would instead, purchase a tyre pressure monitoring setup with lots of coloured digits and LED's - get my fix that way, and hence I installed the boring but efficient, Traxide dual battery controller.