Thread: Suspension Fault Normal Height Only

In my view MLR are the best LR dealer in Melbourne and I'd be surprised if there's a better outfit in Australia. I take my car there and have bought two cars off them, also referred countless people over the years and never regretted doing so.

Thanks,
MLR it is. I did call them up first and was quoted an amount $400 higher than ULR. Funnily ULR said MLR was nearer to me and they're both the same mob, so I called MLR again and they came to the party. Re: the suspension dropping to access height - it originally said "suspension fault, normal height only", but in my wisdom i thought maybe if i drop it to access height it may recorrect the fault. Turns out i was wrong, as once access height was achieved it wouldn't pump up to normal height again. Will see what the result is after the diagnostics this weekend.
yakka

Originally Posted by yakka

it originally said "suspension fault, normal height only"

Its time to jump out and remove the engine bay main suspension fuse when this happens, before it has a chance to pull the plug totally.

Originally Posted by yakka

Thanks,
MLR it is. I did call them up first and was quoted an amount $400 higher than ULR. Funnily ULR said MLR was nearer to me and they're both the same mob, so I called MLR again and they came to the party. Re: the suspension dropping to access height - it originally said "suspension fault, normal height only", but in my wisdom i thought maybe if i drop it to access height it may recorrect the fault. Turns out i was wrong, as once access height was achieved it wouldn't pump up to normal height again. Will see what the result is after the diagnostics this weekend.
yakka

Be interested to hear what the outcome is. Mine started doing the same thing on the week end and is booked in for Monday to go on the computer to tell the mechanic what is wrong with it.

I'm currently awaiting a reply from the uk on the price of a compressor from there. It should be just about over 1/2 the price you will buy one locally.

fuses can be removed, to prevent sinking temporarily. More discussions than you can shake a stick at on most boards. Keep in mind, possible differences between LR3, and DIII as mentioned in various links.

1. Article on replacing the compressor.
Too Many Faults and Sitting on the Bump Stops - Land Rover Repair Forums - LRRForums.com

2. This discussion link describes fuses that can be removed, and the process to keep it from sinking (disabled height ECU, etc)
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Suspension lowering - which fuses to take out?

3. A great descriptions of fuses, components, etc.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch

G'day

We have had the same fault come up on our D3 after some 4WDing over easter, but if you switch the cra off then back on it goes away then may come back every 3rd restart or so.

Any simple checks I can make??

First time it did it it was after a 300km drive and we had stopped and the light came up on restart.

The car has the extended 3 year warranty but I would like the background info before I take it to the dealer so I am not fed any fibs from them about taking the car offroad etc.

BTW offroad driving was only sand and beach

Thanks for any info

OK, I couldn't find this yesterday, when I was looking for it. I suppose we all need to print this out and stick it in the dashbox.. that being said, when your diff goes out, contact me for parts.

If in the field, or on the road and sudden suspension failure, this may buy you some time.

pulling the correct suspension fuses will keep the vehicle from raising or lowering by itself. The fuses are F3E and F26E, both in the engine compartment, and also F35P in the passenger compartment. I got this info again from bbyer's posts on disco3. You'll get a suspension fault warning, but the vehicle will not lower. I don't think this is meant to be a long term solution for anything. In my case, it was just something I did to keep the vehicle usable while awaiting a replacement EAS compressor. The vehicle slowly began to go down after a few days, but I think that was due to a different issue (leak perhaps?) You could pull the fuses at the trail head, but I think you would lose a lot of off-roading functionality, such as cross linkage.

G'day

Only the 20A engine bay fuse needs to be removed as it powers the suspension ecu. The 5A engine bay fuse exists so that the suspension ecu can tell if the compressor relay is supplying power to the compressor (its on the compressor side of the relay contacts) and the passenger compartment fuse tells if the ignition is switched on, but neither is used to power the suspension ecu itself. The fuse numbers are different for D3, RRS (various positions) and the D4.