Reply With QuoteYup, contamination between the drum and the shoe puts the actuator out on setting. Good idea to clean with water or air but best to remove the wheels and clean and adjust properly.
cdl dave
I have just returned from the GCLRO Easter Campout 2011.
On Easter Saturday we ventured to the Condamine Gorge Track.
For those who do not know this track, the road pass through the Condamine River 14 times.
Water levels at worst where a third up the door of the D3.
I completed the day and returned back to camp.
The next morning the park brake acuator was doing the usual squeel and knock upon appling & releasing.
In the past 10 months l had replaced the acuator unit, so l thought it may not be the issue.
How ever l checked the drain plug on the unit for water, and all good.
I checked the unit loom and cable screw application, all good.
The only thing l could think of was contamination in the hand brake drum.
I took the rear wheels off and removed the rubber plug on the drum.
I grabbed the camp shower pump and pumped under pressure water into the drum.
I found brake dust and some grit coming out under inspection.
After this, l put the wheel back on and went for a drive to heat up the main brakes and move the car side to side.
After a test, all is okay for the past day or so.
So a bit of advise, i was in creek water, then on to a dirt road a number of times, hence the pic on our trip.
There was some contamination to restrict the application of the hand brake, and thus the squeel and bang.
I just thought it may be of use if someone else has the same issue.
It may just get you out of trouble.
If the park brake was to lock on, l would have the take the plastic cover off near the hand brake switch and manually release the park brake.
No need in this instance.
Cheers Dave
66 Series 2a
82 RR Classic
86 RR Classic
04 D2a Disco Td5
ChatterBox
Yup, contamination between the drum and the shoe puts the actuator out on setting. Good idea to clean with water or air but best to remove the wheels and clean and adjust properly.
OldBushie
Have you read the owners manual? It mentions cleaning out the handbrake shoes every 20 miles or something ridiculous like that in those sort of conditions.
Scott
gday,my 08 dse 3 had a simmalar problem,with only 58000 klm on the clock the park brake made a screem and locked on,i worked out how to disarm the brake via owners manual, this car has done no off road work and gave no warning signs,my mechanic said its a common fault and suggests an acuator and cabble kit at a cost of $1000,? should i get the kit or try cleaning first as he hasnt looked at it yet,as i live in rockhampton qld, we have no dealer up here,would landrover look after me with parts,ie a discount ?as the car is just out of warranity,any advice would be gratefull
OldBushie
It could just need adjusting but if it's started to scream, it could well be a little late for that.
Scott
Very Very Lucky!
I had this problem a few months ago. I tried getting the drum off. It needs a hex socket to remove it. Does anyone know the size or type this is for a D3?
The first problem with mine was a over tight adjustment on the parking brake. This was fixed by removing the wheel, taking off the small plug and rotating until I could see the cog inside the drum. I needed a torch and patients to find the cog! I adjusted it up to lock then backed it off three clicks on advise of ARL(thanks guys) and no problem.
Yesterday after a fair bit of water I got the Squeal and error message for the parking brakejust a lot less than at first.
The 20k parking brake shoe cleaning sound good. I guess if we do a lot of river crossing especialy in dirty water and or time in mud baths
Ritta suggested it is about an hours work to remove the disk brakes and calipers to allow a service, clean and recallibration of the hand brake.
210,000 km and loving my D3
Swaggie
T50 Torx (not hex) socket is needed to remove the hub retaining screw. Adjustment needs a 4mm Allen key. Procedure is to loosen the Allen key bolt, tighten shoes until 40-90Nm to turn the axle, back off 8 clicks then tighten the Allen key bolt. Its certainly a good idea to clean out the dust before adjusting.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Very Very Lucky!
Took D3 to URL, wanted the whole parking brake looked at but with two sick kids in tow
Master
SubscriberDon't know id it is common, but mine was replaced yesterday (2008 TDV6 with 73,400 km on the clock).
the dealer told me that they had tried to adjust but could not get it right, therefore the whold module was replaced. Good thing I bought the extended warranty.
Cheers
Mike
cdl dave
Bit of info on the queel l had.
It really started to get on my nerves when the wife rings me from the shops, saying she cannot move.
The whole problem started with going on a club trip through a number of shallow river crossings.
Grit builds up in the drum etc etc.
The shoes jam and bind and thus the acuator squeels its head of, as it cannot move the shoes in or out properly.
To cut a long story short, l took it to a local brake guy, and he machined the drum and noted that there was alot of grit and brake dust flowing the function.
Pretty much it seems general maintenance is the key in this regard, if you enter mud, very dusty conditions or water crossings.
Yes l had replaced the brake acuator last year, due to it being just plain worn out.
But beyond that, simple cleaning and maint is the key for easy operation the car.
Cheers Dave
66 Series 2a
82 RR Classic
86 RR Classic
04 D2a Disco Td5
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